Monday, November 29, 2010

Blind/Deaf Dogs OUTSIDE of BDRA

There are plenty of blind and/or deaf dogs that need homes!
Blind Dog Rescue Alliance cannot take them all (oh how we wish we could). So, it's up to wonderful humans to take these pups in and show them some love :)

Here is the link to our other blog which we use to post blind and/or deaf dogs that need out of shelters ASAP!
http://blinddeafdogs.blogspot.com/


Also, Blind Dog Rescue Alliance post dogs for other rescues that need forever homes! Check out visually impaired dogs in you're area and give them a home this holiday season!
http://www.blinddogrescue.com/courtesylistings.html

Monday, November 8, 2010

Come meet BDRA in West Chester, PA

Come meet Theia, Orion, Seth, and Loxlee at the Sproutfest this Sunday in PA!
Time
Sunday, November 14 · 12:00pm - 3:00pm

LocationWest Goshen Park
West Chester, PA

Created By

More InfoCome visit BDRA's booth and meet our dogs!


Finding Shelter Animal Rescue began on January 1, 2010 as a no-kill rescue for dogs and cats. Finding Shelter was inspired by our dog named Sprout, a blind Chihuahua who was abandoned on the side of the road in November, 2009. Sprout was sick and afraid and was expected to live only two, short weeks. He has quite a bit of fight in him for such a small guy and on November 14, 2010 we will celebrate 1 year with Sprout in our lives. He is our own little miracle.

To celebrate this great milestone, we're holding a super-adoption event in honor of Sprout’s anniversary. Please come out and celebrate with us!

Sprout Fest 2010
Sponsored By: Finding Shelter Animal Rescue and the ARC of Chester County
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Noon-3pm
West Goshen Community Park, West Chester, PA
Rain or Shine


Theia: http://www.blinddogrescue.com/availabledogs/theia.html
Orion: http://www.blinddogrescue.com/availabledogs/orion.html
Seth: http://www.blinddogrescue.com/availabledogs/seth.html
Loxlee (former BDRA dog): http://www.blinddogrescue.com/adopted/2010.html

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Craft projects for your pup

Here is the link to the Care 2 article. It gives you 8 projects with links to make cool stuff for the love of you life. Have fun and make something cool for your dog this weekend.;)

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/doggie-diy-8-projects-for-your-pooch.html

Remember we have many different fundraisers going on. Check them out on our home page.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Protecting Dogs From Vaccine Reactions

Unless a vaccine reaction is strong and immediate, most people – and a shocking number of vets – don’t connect a new or worsened health problem to a shot, let alone report the reaction. The 2007 World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) Vaccination Guidelines say there is “gross under-reporting of vaccine-associated adverse events which impedes knowledge of the ongoing safety of these products.” Former FDA head, Dr. David Kessler, says “only about 1% of serious events are reported to the FDA.” He was referring to drugs for people; reporting of pet drug reactions is likely to be far worse.

How prevalent are reactions?

In 2007, approximately 6500 reactions were reported for the canine rabies vaccine alone. If as suggested only 1% of reactions were reported, approximately 650,000 reactions likely occurred. And there are still more than a dozen other vaccines causing reactions.

In my article Vaccinating Small Dogs: Risks Vets Aren’t Revealing, I summarized a shocking 2005 study which reported: Young adult small-breed neutered dogs given multiple vaccines per office visit are at greatest risk of an adverse reaction within 72 hours after vaccination … and the risk increases with each subsequent vaccine given. Reactions studied ranged from hives to shock and even death. Although the less a dog weighs, the more likely the reaction — all dogs are at risk when multiple vaccines are given.

Please read Vaccinating Small Dogs now to determine if and when your dog is at risk, which reactions were reported and more. Really. Read it now!

What can you do to keep your dog from reacting badly to a vaccine?

The study’s researchers recommended only that your vet reveal the risks before vaccinating. (They’re already supposed to do that and are not doing a very good job. Have you been warned?)

There are better ways to help keep your dog from experiencing a vaccine reaction. I’ve asked vet friends for suggestions for making vaccinating safer:

* Vaccine labels say to vaccinate “healthy animals only.” Whenever possible, postpone vaccinating pets experiencing any health problem – including allergies, skin problems, intestinal problems or stress. Don’t vaccinate dogs with autoimmune immune problems, cancer, seizures or other serious conditions. Never vaccinate a dog undergoing anesthesia, or in the several weeks before and after surgery or moving to a new home.
* Don’t automatically re-vaccinate. Get a simple blood test called a titer test. Repeated doses of the same vaccine increase the risk of reaction. In another study, the risk of allergic reactions has been reported to increase after three or four injections of a vaccine.
* Stop giving unnecessary vaccines. Parvovirus, distemper and adenovirus-2 are the only shots recommended for all dogs by virtually every veterinary organization and school. All others are for special circumstances only; many are ineffective and may cause reactions (including death).
* Whenever possible, vaccinate under the supervision of a holistic vet trained in homeopathy. At least, give the homeopathic remedy Thuja (Thuya) when vaccinating with most vaccines. Use Lyssin for the rabies vaccine. If your vet isn’t skilled in homeopathy, you can get instructions and remedies at naturalrearing.com.
* NEVER allow your vet to give multiple vaccines during one visit – especially to your small or medium-sized dogs. Important: a combination shot (like DHLPP) goes in with just one needle prick but contains multiple vaccines – sometimes as many as 7. Add Bordetella and you’re up to 8.
* “Vaccines should not be given more often than every other week, even when different vaccines are being given,” says WSAVA. Three to four weeks in between is even better.
* Dr. Patricia Jordan, vaccination expert and author of Mark of the Beast says to ask for a thimerasol-free (mercury-free) vaccine. Merial makes a thimerasol-free one- and three-year rabies vaccine. Look for “TF” in the brand name. http://imrab.us.merial.com/imrab/offerings.shtml
* Insist your vet use monovalent, or at most, bivalent vaccines – even if you have to buy them yourself. Monovalent vaccines contain only one bacteria or virus. Bivalent vaccines contain 2. (See our article on combo shots for links to monovalent and bivalent shots.)
* When possible, vaccinate puppies and test for strong titers as long as possible prior to spaying or neutering. (Make sure growth plates are mature before the surgery.)
* Avoid vaccinating animals with histories of vaccine reactions. Report any reactions to your vet so you’ll have a record. Apply for a health exemption to rabies vaccination.
* Take great care when vaccinating animals from breeds or families (especially littermates) with known reactions.
* Don’t vaccinate puppies under 8 weeks of age, except when faced with an epidemic. (Early vaccination is dangerous and may not work because of maternal immunity.) Pet vaccination expert Dr. Jean Dodds’ protocol begins at 9 weeks. Dr. Ron Schultz recommends beginning at 15 weeks, giving one shot of DAP (distemper/adenovirus-2/parvovirus), then testing titers two weeks later.
* Avoid the leptospirosis vaccine (the “L” in DHLPP combos). WSAVA says: “This product is associated with the greatest number of adverse reactions to any vaccine.” The 2006 American Animal Hospital Association Canine Vaccine Task Force reported: “Routine vaccination of toy breeds should only be considered in dogs known to have a high exposure risk.” Vets and breeders suggest the incidence of “severe anaphylaxis” in puppies under 12 weeks of age and small-breed dogs is high. I’ll add that they should make sure that the vaccine protects against local strains of disease. It often doesn’t.
* Most veterinary drugs are weight dependent, but vaccines aren’t. A toy breed puppy and an adult Mastiff get the same size shot. Many vets believe this causes reactions in small dogs, so they split the dose. Vets can legally split any vaccine except rabies.When interviewing pet vaccination expert Dr. Jean Dodds for my book, she told me that a split dose works well, and that the USDA told her that manufacturers make vaccines up to ten times more powerful than necessary (because vaccines are harmless?). There’s also supporting evidence for splitting doses from numerous human studies. To ease your own mind, two weeks after the final shot, have a titer test done to make sure the shot gave immunity.Why don’t drug manufacturers offer split doses for small dogs? Dr. Dodds told me: “You cannot change dosing label recommendations without another new licensing trial, so that will never happen. Except for rabies, where the whole vaccine must be administered by law, any veterinarian can elect to give less than a full dose to a small or very small dog, as long as there is written informed consent on file from the owner.”If you want a split dose, but your vet fears it isn’t safe or worries that you might file a complaint if it doesn’t work, offer to sign that “letter of informed consent.”I asked Dr. Dodds for clarification: “For dogs of breed types weighing less than 12 pounds as adults, in parvovirus 2-c [CPV 2-c] endemic areas, I’d give a half dose of parvo vaccine at 6 weeks. Then for all parvo endemic and non-endemic areas, … 3 weeks later [give] a half dose of distemper + parvo, then repeat it 3-4 weeks later. Then give rabies 3-4 weeks after that. You don’t need to measure titers after that, as this protocol should work well. For larger pups, the dose should be a full 1 ml each time.”WSAVA, however, warns: “The volume (e.g. 1.0 ml) as recommended by the manufacturer generally represents the minimum immunising dose, therefore the total amount must be given.” Clearly, experts disagree.If I wanted to give a split dose, I’d prove the immunity by giving a titer test two weeks after the final shot. It may not be necessary but it would put my mind at ease.
* Drs. Stephen Blake and Dr. Jordan both recommend giving colostrum when vaccinating (or forever). My dogs get a medical grade super colostrum called IgG 2000 DF from Xymogen.com. I take it myself. You can also find collostrum at Dr. Blake’s website or at your health food store. Dr. Jordan also suggests you give Pawier vitamins when vaccinating. She adds: “All of the dogs that Dr. Blake has seen with parvo and distemper and kennel cough were all VACCINATED dogs….the vaccine is not a guarantee, that is the point.” Dr. Blake told me that himself.

As an added precaution, vaccinate your dog early in the day (preferably when the clinic will be open for a few days afterwards). Stay near the clinic for several hours and watch for changes in health or behavior after the shot throughout the day. Check for reactions during the night.

Report all reactions to your vet immediately, and ask him/her to report the reaction to the manufacturer. Check to see that the vet does (because much of the time they won’t.) Call the manufacturer yourself. If your dog has trouble breathing or moving, or if he gets hives or his face swells, get to an emergency vet right away. If you’re worried about your dog at all, call your vet or an emergency clinic and ask if you should come in. (Make sure you know how to get to your nearest emergency clinic — just in case.)

Report every health change within six weeks after the shot even if you think it’s not related. (Okay, a broken leg won’t be a reaction, but trouble walking or a change in behavior may be.) Ask the vet to report the reaction to the manufacturer and follow up! Get a copy of your dog’s file and keep it safe.
Written by Jan on October 8, 2009 – 12:01 am

dogs4dogs.com

Another Reason Adoption is the BEST Alternative

Skip the expensive pet stores and breeder boutiques by adopting a pet from your local animal shelter or the ASPCA. Purebred puppies and kittens can cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars to buy, while adoption fees at shelters are generally under $200 for dogs and $100 for cats. Also, adopting an adult animal over a newborn helps you identify any behavioral quirks and health problems, and lets you better prepare for known medical costs before bringing your new pet home.

Here's Kazoo, head back, sound asleep.

BDRA Foster Failure, Kazoo.
"We just got back from vacation so I think he missed us. He was totally sound asleep in that crazy position." -Kazoo's adoptive mom

SELL SELL SELL!


BDRA is participating in an auction starting next week. If you have anything to donate please email ladymedic13@charter.net.

The auction will be at http://www.lifeslittlepawsauction.com/

Pumpkinhead!


BDRA Foster Desi went to a pumpkin party today!

Thursday, October 7, 2010

A Poem written by a dog.



I love my master
Thus I perfume myself with
This long-rotten squirrel

I lie belly-up
In the sunshine, happier than
You ever will be

How do I love thee?
The ways are numberless as
My hairs on the rug

My human is home!
I am so ecstatic I have
Made a puddle

I am your best friend
Now, always, and especially
When you are eating

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Help Us!!



Take a minute to help us win $1,000! Download the Blind Dog Rescue Alliance toolbar and every time you shop at one of more than 1,500 participating stores, a percentage of your purchase will automatically go to our cause! The five organizations that have the most toolbars downloaded in October win an extra $1,000 each so please add it and share with friends today!! http://www.goodsearch.com/toolbar/blind-dog-rescue-alliance

Newbie!


Check out our latest sweetie pie available for adoption!


Click Here to read all about him!

Quote for Rescue


"But, young man, don't you realize that there are miles and miles of beach, and starfish all along it. You can't possibly make a difference!" The young man listened politely. Then bent down, picked up another starfish and threw it into the sea, past the breaking waves and said, "It made a difference for that one."

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Bia has a forever home!


Bia finally found her forever home. Here is her with her new mom.

***********

Remember up to TEN THOUSAND pets are put to sleep each day because there are not enough homes.
PLEASE! Spay and Neuter your pets!
Please go to our home page to find out how you can help BDRA.

Thursday, September 30, 2010

The ABCs of Cruelty-Free Flea Control

The ABCs of Cruelty-Free Flea Control

PETA's latest undercover investigation, which took place inside Professional Laboratory and Research Services (PLRS), a North Carolina lab that tests products on dogs, cats, and rabbits, has upset a lot of animal lovers―and not just because of the sadistic behavior of the employees at the facility. Some of the products tested there were topical flea treatments, which are viewed by many as absolutely essential to the well-being of our animal companions. If we want to boycott such products, what are we supposed to do? We can't let our animals become flea-bitten and miserable. Anyone who has ever had poison ivy or hives or any kind of allergic reaction that causes itching knows how torturous it can be when your whole body is itchy.

Let me just say right up front that unfortunately, in some cases, you might not be able to boycott these products, even though they are animal-tested, without making your own dog or cat miserable, and that is not acceptable. I'm speaking of dogs and cats with flea allergies. A flea allergy changes the whole equation, because animals with flea allergies are so sensitive that they will break out in hotspots if even one flea gets on them. The flea may not even need to bite them to cause an extreme reaction. Holistic measures are unlikely to create an environment that is 100 percent flea-free (although it's not impossible), so in households with allergic animals, you may need to bite the bullet and stick with the chemical flea treatments, which, sadly, are all animal-tested.

However, for people whose animals are not allergic to fleas, using holistic flea-control measures is a great idea because not only do you avoid supporting animal testing, you also provide your animal companions with a healthier environment by preventing them from absorbing harsh chemicals through their skin. Admittedly, holistic flea control is more time-consuming and labor-intensive than simply applying a topical chemical treatment, but it's well worth it for the sake of your animal companions' health and for the sake of the animals suffering inside the laboratories that test the products.

Here is a solid 10-point cruelty-free action plan for ridding your home and animal companions of fleas (you probably won't need to take all 10 actions, but the more you do, the more successful your flea-elimination program will be―just see what works for you):

1. Purchase a good flea comb and use it every day to remove adult fleas from your animals' coats. This will provide instant relief as well as helping you keep tabs on the flea population.

2. Bathe your animals with a gentle shampoo containing calendula, oatmeal, or aloe once every week or two. Throw their bedding into the washer while you're at it.

3. Vacuum your house as frequently as possible, and stow the vacuum bag inside a plastic bag in your freezer to kill any fleas or flea eggs that you happened to vacuum up.

4. Give your animals a B-complex vitamin supplement every day to boost the health of their coat.

5. Make a natural flea repellent by adding six or seven drops of the essential oils of rosemary, peppermint, eucalyptus, tea tree, and citronella to a cup of water and shaking well. Use a spray bottle to apply the solution to your dog's coat every other day. (Do not use this on cats―they are too sensitive to essential oils.)

6. Black walnut capsules are a good flea repellent for dogs―adjust the dosage by bodyweight and give several times a week.

7. Diatomaceous earth, which consists of fossilized algae, will kill fleas by causing them to dehydrate. It is very important that you buy the natural diatomaceous earth sold in gardening centers rather than the kind that is used in pools. The latter has been treated and contains dangerous chemicals. Spread diatomaceous earth on your carpets and hardwood flooring and leave it down as long as possible, then vacuum it up along with the dead fleas. It's a very light powder, so be sure not to let your animals (or children) breathe it in while it is being applied.

8. Your yard can also be treated for fleas. Keep your grass cut short, and try dousing it with beneficial nematodes―these are roundworms who are more than happy to dine on flea larvae. You can purchase them online. Fleabusters has them (see below), as do many other companies.

9. Fleabusters/Rx for Fleas is a cruelty-free professional flea-control company that will treat your home for you or sell you the products to do so yourself.

10. Here are some additional cruelty-free flea-control products that you might want to consider: Rosie's Remedies, Natural Animal Health Products for dogs and for cats, Great Life Performance Pet Products flea spray, and Dr. Goodpet products.

Good luck!

Courtesy of peta.com

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Brody Our Pup of the week.


Brody is the most amazing doggie you’ll ever meet, a blind 3-legged girl with a boy’s name! Brody does EVERYTHING any other doggie can do, including running, going up and down stairs, playing, and always and forever wagging her thick beautiful tail in happiness.



Brody is truly always, every single minute, happy, especially when she gets to spend time with her humans. She likes laying and/or playing with you on the floor, couch, bed or outside in the grass. Brody enjoys chewies and her stuffed animals and works on getting the squeakies out of them!



Brody is very intelligent and aware of her surroundings. She has excellent hearing and smell and maps out her surroundings so you’d never know she’s blind. Brody is totally healthy with beautiful thick, rich fur that is a pleasure to pet. Brody likes her doggie bed though would prefer to sleep beside you. Brody does not care for other animals, much preferring the company of her people.



Brody’s dream family would be any number of humans, one or many, and she would be happy spending as much time with you as you’d like, and - though she does well on her own also – Brody would be happy being near the family action offering her happy companionship that will keep you smiling and feeling loved.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Excessive licking

Are you frustrated with excessive licking in dogs? Although licking is a normal behavior in dogs, it can become one of many bad dog habits. In this article, we'll learn why dogs lick, and what you can do to stop dog licking.

Canine Licking Is A Natural Behavior For Dogs

Licking is a way for dogs to communicate with each other, and with you. In the wild, dogs will lick the pack leader when he returns after an absence. This is a greeting ritual that reinforces the pack social order. Your dog will probably engage in this same greeting ritual when you get up in the morning or return home from work in the evening. You should let your dog lick your hands so he can reassure himself that nothing in his world has changed.

Canine licking is also a way for your pup to express his affection for you. This is how he tells you that he's happy to see you, he loves you, and he wants to be with you. So allow your dog this normal outlet for his affection, but don't let him overdo it, or it can become one of many bad dog habits.

A less desirable reason for excessive licking in dogs is that your dog is anxious or stressed about something. Licking himself or you can become an obsessive behavior. Licking himself too much can lead to hair loss and bald spots. If he licks you too much, a slobbering dog can get old pretty fast. You'll need to do some detective work to figure out why he's anxious.

Your dog could also be licking himself simply because he's itchy due to allergies or dry skin. If he's licking his feet all the time, the pads on his paws may be irritated, especially in the winter months, due to snow, ice, and road salt.

Skin allergies or fleas also cause intense itching, which leads to excessive canine licking. An older dog may be in pain from arthritis. It's always a good idea to take your dog in for a vet check if he seems to be spending licking himself too much.

It's always possible that you've accidentally trained your dog to lick you too much by giving him attention every time he licks you. Your attention is very important to your dog, and he'll do whatever it takes to get it.

How To Stop Dog Licking

If you've ruled out medical or emotional issues, you can quickly stop excessive licking in dogs. Allow your dog to engage in his greeting rituals, but if he overdoes the licking, say "no licking" very firmly and walk away from him. Don't talk to him or even look in his direction for a minute or two. Don't give him any attention at all.

Your slobbering dog will probably probably be very persistent, but you just need to be more persistent. Don't give up, and he'll eventually get the idea.

Need more dog training tips? A good dog behavior course that includes a consultation with an experienced dog trainer, and that has a forum where you can get advice from other dog owners should be your next step.

What are you waiting for? Take the next step now to stop excessive dog licking.

Darlene Norris has worked at a vet clinic and an animal shelter, and has had lots of experience with dogs. If you're dealing with excessive canine licking, visit No More Bad Dogs at http://NoMoreBadDogs.com to learn about a dog training course that will help to solve your problem.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darlene_L._Norris

Saturday, September 25, 2010

I Rescued A Human

Her eyes met mine as she walked down the corridor peering apprehensively into the kennels. I felt her need instantly and knew I had to help her. I wagged my tail, not too exuberantly, so she wouldn’t be afraid.

As she stopped at my kennel I blocked her view from a little accident I had in the back of my cage. I didn’t want her to know that I hadn’t been walked today. Sometimes the shelter keepers get too busy and I didn’t want her to think poorly of them.

As she read my kennel card I hoped that she wouldn’t feel sad about my past. I only have the future to look forward to and want to make a difference in someone’s life.

She got down on her knees and made little kissy sounds at me. I shoved my shoulder and side of my head up against the bars to comfort her. Gentle fingertips caressed my neck; she was desperate for companionship.

A tear fell down her cheek and I raised my paw to assure her that all would be well Soon my kennel door opened and her smile was so bright that I instantly jumped into her arms. I would promise to keep her safe. I would promise to always be by her side. I would promise to do everything I could to see that radiant smile and sparkle in her eyes. I was so fortunate that she came down my corridor. So many more are out there who haven’t walked the corridors. So many more to be saved. At least I could save one.

I rescued a human today.

Source: Rescue Me Dog, Janine Allen,
Via Ed Miller
Written by Janine Allen CPDT, Rescue Me Dog’s professional dog trainer. Janine’s passion is working with people and their dogs. She provides demonstrations for those who have adopted shelter dogs, lends email support to adopted dog owners that need information beyond our Training Support Pages, and aids shelter staff and volunteers in understanding dog behavior to increase their adoptability. Copyright 2010 Rescue Me Dog

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Raw food diet basics

Raw Diet: The Basics

After losing our 2.5 year old Dogue De Bordeaux to GDV (commonly called bloat), we began searching for information on how to prevent this condition. By the time our new pup arrived we had settled on a raw diet for our little giant. While I have been in the animal field for over 7 years and have owned dogs for 11, this is my first raw fed puppy. Of course, starting something so new and different (and time-consuming!) can be daunting, so I'd like to help answer some of the most common questions posed to us about raw diets. There are many ways to feed raw, and even more opinions about what is good and what isn’t; this information is based on our personal education and experience.
What is raw feeding?

When raw feeding, what you see is what you get. There are no hidden ingredients, no fillers. All the mystery is taken out of your dog’s meals. A raw diet is composed of the same food you eat, but as it suggests, nothing is cooked. Well, I don’t know many people who eat bones, but for the most part, raw food is human food.
Why feed raw?

Dogs in the wild did not have little cooked pellets that contained cooked vegetables and grains (or cooked meat, for that matter), thus their systems are not made for digesting these ingredients. A raw diet is a direct evolution of what dogs ate before they became our pets.

Some pet owners who have made the switch have noticed drastic changes in their pets, including:

* Shinier, healthier skin
* Fresher breath/cleaner teeth
* Improved digestion
* Improvement with allergy symptoms
* Decreased shedding
* Increased stamina
* Firmer, smaller stools
* A general increase in overall health


What can I feed?

When discussing raw feeding you'll often hear people talking about RMB's, which stands for Raw Meaty Bones. A raw meaty bone is a bone with a *lot* of meat on it that is consumable. Yes, a dog can eat (and will enjoy eating) the entire bone. No, the bone is not going to splinter; those canines will be put to good use grinding bones up.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Cooked bones run the risk of splintering- NEVER feed cooked bones!

A dog on a raw diet will need a variety of different meats in order to reap the benefits that each protein provides; for example one type of meat may be higher in iron, while another may be higher in vitamin A. This is why a rotating diet is recommended in order to maintain a healthy raw diet.

Here is a list of some items your dog can try:

* Chicken - whole or any parts! (backs, necks, wings, etc.)
* Turkey - whole or any parts (wings, necks, etc.)
* Cornish game hens (whole)
* Beef (any cuts)
* Oxtail
* Pork (necks, ribs, any cuts)
* Rabbit
* Fish (canned sardines in WATER, not oil, or Jack mackerel)
* Quail
* Buffalo, kangaroo- almost anything you can think of!

Also, your dog does need organ meat, for its high nutrient content- feed liver or kidney as 10% of their diet.

When you first start your dog on raw, introduce one protein source at a time. Feed chicken for a week, then beef for a week, and so on, to introduce these foods to your pet’s system. This way you can easily detect a protein allergy. Once the food is introduced you should have no problem varying meat daily during normal weeks.

A note on bacteria: This was one of my concerns when we starting looking into the raw option. Raw meat is not safe for humans because of bacteria like e-coli and Salmonella. But, canine digestive systems are have some natural immunity to bacteria, and can handle the bacteria in meat without issue, when in good overall health.

In addition to meat, include vegetables, eggs, fruit, yogurt, etc. Eggs, like bones, are a good source of calcium, so are good to use when you don’t have bones. Pumpkin is a good system regulator, so we keep that on hand for most meals. There are countless good foods to give your dog, once you start looking! Grains, however, are completely unnecessary- since commercial pet foods are always grain-based diets, many people are used to the idea that their dogs need grain. It’s just not true. Some of the positive effects of feeding raw are related to eliminating grain from your dog’s diet.
How much does my dog need to eat?

The general rule is to feed a healthy adult dog between 2-4% of its weight daily, and then adjust as needed. If you have an overweight dog, start on the lower end of the spectrum, if you have a dog who needs to gain a little bit of weight, start closer to 4%. You will also be able to judge by looking at your dog- if he is looking a little thin, bump up his meat intake. Puppies may require up to 10% of their weight daily during growth. Raw diets are ideal for growing puppies, too, but they can’t eat all the same bones an adult dog can. Give puppies non-weight-bearing bones, as their young teeth can’t handle thicker bones.
Where do I find raw food?

Raw diets are catching on as a viable and healthy alternative to commercial pet food, and so there are some brands of packaged raw food. While those are a step up from kibble, they are very expensive and you still don’t have the advantage of knowing exactly what your dog eats at each meal. We recommend finding a good butcher or local farmer for your meat source. If you have some extra freezer space, you’ll probably be able to work out good deals buying in larger quantities. As far as cost goes, raw is less expensive than kibble. Kibble has filler in it, while a raw diet is 100% food a dog will benefit from eating. People feeding kibble need to feed more of it to satisfy a dog’s dietary needs; raw food is more cost effective in that sense.

www. Dogguide.com

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Yankee Candles and Puppy Pretzels

Remember our Yankee candle Event! BDRA gets 40% of the proceeds! The sale ends soon. So get yours now,just in time for the holidays!


Puppy Pretzels: A Nice Treat for Winter Days
by K-9 Health Solutions on Thursday February 04, 2010.

Have you ever wanted to give your pet some of your hot cocoa while you’re curling up on a winter’s day? Well, hot chocolate isn’t great for your pet, but there is indeed something you can treat him with when you’re both watching the snow fall outside. Puppy pretzels are an easy to make and hearty treat that any dog will love and can be a great comfort food when the weather outside gets frightful. Try out this yummy recipe the next time you’re expecting a snow day.

Ingredients:
1 teaspoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
2/3 cup water
3/4 cup whole wheat flour
3 tablespoons soy flour, low fat
1/4 cup nonfat dry milk
1 tablespoon dried liver powder
1 tablespoon bone meal flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 egg – beaten, divided (1/2 in recipe, 1/2 in glaze)
2 tablespoons cooking oil
3 tablespoons wheat germ

Directions
First, dissolve yeast and sugar in warm water. Then, in a separate bowl, combine the rest of the dry ingredients. To the dry ingredients, add half of the beaten egg, oil, and then the yeast mixture. Mix well until a dough forms.

Remove dough from bowl and knead on a well-floured surface until the dough is firm. Add dough to an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise until it nearly doubles in size. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. After the dough has risen, roll out and shape into pretzels. Place the pretzels on a greased cookie sheet and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and brush them with the remainder of the beaten egg. Sprinkle with wheat germ. Return to oven and bake at 300 degrees for about 15 minutes or until they are nicely browned and firm.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Harmony- Our Pup of the week.


Name: Harmony

Breed: Miniature Pinscher

Sex: Female

Age: 6-7 +/-

Level of blindness: total

Cause of eye issues: diabetes

Health issues: diabetes

Weight: 14

Good with dogs: yes

Good with cats: unknown

Good with children: yes

Currently being fostered in: Tennessee


Information:

Harmony is a Miniature Pinscher, blind and diabetic and a very happy girl! Harmony is energetic, loves giving kisses, curling up with you (or in a blanket or her kennel) and enjoys her walks. She gets along well with our entire pack and is a pleasure. Harmony has tons of personality and is a positive and happy girl.

Harmony was nearly euthanized by her past human, then our vet's office called and asked if we could take her in. She's been fully vetted, on HW preentative and her diabetes is completely under control and requires 2 shots daily. Harmony is completely blind yet is very smart and has mapped our home and yard out, goes up and down stairs easily and travels about comfortably.

Harmony seeks a Forever Home. In return Harmony will be a loyal, devout and loving friend. Harmony will win your heart, forever.

:-)





Update: August 9, 2010


This little ball of dynamite is totally positive, gentle yet assertive and loves cuddling with her humans especially under the blanket. Harmony maps out everything, is extremely intelligent and otherwise healthy and gets along with the pack well.





If you are interested in adopting Harmony, please fill out our adoption application, on our website; www.blinddogrescue.com

If you would like to donate to Harmony's care, please send to:

BDRA
PO Box 63401
Philadelphia, PA 19114

Monday, September 20, 2010

Don't protect puppy mills--All Pa readers

Don't Protect Puppy Mills--Call Your Senator Now!
by Amber Lynn Raup on Monday, September 20, 2010 at 11:07am

All Pa members please call Senator Greenleaf and ask him to vote no on this bill. His phone # is



(717) 787-6599



Thanks for not protecting puppy mills.





Dear Pennsylvania Animal Advocates,



This morning (Monday, Sept. 20), the PA Senate Agriculture Committee will vote on House Bill 511, legislation to protect factory farms and puppy mills. This harmful legislation has already passed the PA House, so making an immediate phone call to your state senator is especially critical!



HB 511 would criminalize trespass that compromises the “biosecurity” of any farm or animal confinement facility. In reality, it would be a crime, subject to harsh punishment, merely to enter such a property and “damage” a plant. Under current law, trespass for much more sinister purposes such as "terrorizing" the property owner is subject to far less severe punishment.



The thinly disguised purpose of this proposed law is to chill advocacy efforts on behalf of the farm and companion animals confined on Pennsylvania’s factory farms and puppy mills.



What You Can Do If your state senator is an Agriculture Committee member, please call to urge him or her to vote “no” on HB 511—and if your state senator is not a committee member, please call to urge him or her to speak to committee members this morning to request that they vote “no” on HB 511.



Visit the ASPCA Advocacy Center to find out which senators are on the committee and to find your state senator’s number.

Thank you, Pennsylvania, for speaking up for animals.

Happily Ever Afer


Nikita has been adopted and is settling well into her new home. Here she is with her new siblings.

Friday, September 17, 2010

Furmanator

I bought a knock off brands "Furmanator" called "Groomanator". At a fraction of the price. This brands comb only comes in one size,medium. Which is a little big for the tiny dogs. But it still does the job. After using it for 4 days,I am totally in love.
If you have pets you need this comb!
It gets all the extra hair and then some. My Blind dog Bacon leaves blankets of hair where ever she goes. And has a nasty cough due to her fur getting caught in her throat. But today she barely coughed. Gone are the blankets of dog hair.
And our clothes,have little to no dog hair on them. This product is simply amazing!
Well worth the price. If you purchase the original product-the small combs start at close to 30 dollars online.
I bought Sergents brand comb for only ten dollars,at my local grocery store.

Furmanator

I bought a knock off brands "Furmanator" called "Groomanator". At a fraction of the price. This brands comb only comes in one size,medium. Which is a little big for the tiny dogs. But it still does the job. After using it for 4 days,I am totally in love.
If you have pets you need this comb!
It gets all the extra hair and then some. My Blind dog Bacon leaves blankets of hair where ever she goes. And has a nasty cough due to her fur getting caught in her throat. But today she barely coughed. Gone are the blankets of dog hair.
And our clothes,have little to no dog hair on them. This product is simply amazing!
Well worth the price. If you purchase the original product-the small combs start at close to 30 dollars online.
I bought Sergents brand comb for only ten dollars,at my local grocery store.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Reiki for pets

Reiki for Pets

Reiki is a hands-on healing method that originated in Japan. The practitioner channels healing energy through her hands to the animal through a light touch either directly on the body or from a distance. The word Reiki (pronounced "ray-key") is a Japanese composite word usually translated as "universal life energy". It is based on the idea that all living beings have life energy flowing through them. When life energy is high, your pets are healthy and balanced, more relaxed and less likely to get sick. When it is low, they'll often be more easily affected by stress and less resistant to illness. Reiki is a safe complement to conventional Western medicine, Chinese medicine, herbal medicine, homeopathy and all other forms of healing.

Animals, especially cats, are naturally receptive to the Reiki energy and tend to gravitate towards it readily (some people even say cats invented Reiki). Some pets may initially prefer to experience the energy from a slight distance, rather than having the practitioner's hands directly on them.

Reiki sessions for pets typically last 20-30 minutes. The frequency of sessions depends entirely on each individual animal's health status and needs. Some health issues can be resolved in two or three sessions, others may take ongoing sessions on a recurring basis. As with all services Healing Hands provides, frequency of sessions will be tailored to your pet's individual needs.



Benefits of Reiki for pets:

* Enhances overall well-being.

Just like people, even healthy pets can have occasional physical, emotional and mental imbalances that, if left untreated, can manifest as illness. Periodic Reiki treatments can help maintain your pet's natural state of well-being and balance.

* Strengthens the immune system for cancer therapies.

Cancer therapies such as chemotherapy and radiation present stress to an already compromised immune system. Reiki strengthens the immune system to better deal with this additional stress. It helps alleviate or prevent the side effects of conventional cancer treatments and provides pain relief.

* Accelerates healing following surgery or illness.

Reiki can alleviate and prevent side effects of conventional medications such as pain killers and antibiotics, and provides pain relief and relaxation to facilitate and enhance the body's natural healing response.

* Increases trust and bonding between you and your pet.

People and pets often mirror each others' physical and emotional states. Animals are natural healers and sometimes take on their person's problems, often in an attempt to heal them. This happens because of the deep bond shared between a pet and his or her person. Because of the shared energy in such a close relationship, energetic imbalances are shared as well. For optimum healing, joint treatments for people and their pets can often be beneficial.

* Can help with behavior issues by promoting relaxation and stress reduction.

Many behavior issues are caused by stress. Reiki has a calming effect on the pet and may help make the pet more receptive to training and behavior modification. Reiki is extremely beneficial for animals with a history of abuse. The gentle touch and the energy can help restore trust in animals who have learned to associate touch with being hurt.

* Provides comfort and relieves pain, anxiety and fear for terminally ill animals.

Reiki is a wonderful way to facilitate the transition for terminally ill animals and their owners. Often, animals will not allow themselves to transition because they intuitively feel that their person is not ready to let them go. Joint Reiki treatments for the pet and his or her person can help both through this difficult time by enhancing the bond and allowing a gentle transition.

http://www.pethealing.net/reiki_for_pets_1.html

Monday, September 13, 2010


Wally “Bear” Erickson

Wally Bear (or Wally Lion as our son, Jon refers to him sometimes) is living the life at our home in Pinckney, Michigan. We refer to him (and yes, his middle name is Bear) and he lives up to the name because he is such a teddy bear.

When he first came into our house, there was a rawhide under the table from Lady, he just laid down and started chewing. From that point on, we knew he WAS HOME TO STAY. He was also heart-worm positive and we didn’t know the extent of his blindness. We have since got him care, where he loves the techs and the vet. We have him treated and he is almost positively cured from the heart-worm. We also found out that Wally has cateracts quite badly (which we aren’t sure what is beyond that and don’t want to do surgery which could cause more harm than good). However, we have found that he can see light and shapes, which benefit him well when Grandma is around with treats!

He is a good boy and loves to run and play in our front yard while being on his lead. His new big sister, Lady Grace or E, goes outside with him and is his seeing-eye -dog and protects him from anything that comes up to scare him. He loves to chew on bones, pig snots and Bully sticks for hours to entertain himself. He loves to be scratched in front of his ears, loves to get hugs and kisses from us (especially our son) and puts his cute head up on the bed to wake you up in the morning. Being with Lady, he has learned that he has a voice and needs to be heard. Once she starts barking, he chimes in, and always get the last word (bark). Which is definitely a trait in this family!

This summer, we visited our family cottage. Wally at first wasn’t to sure of the water and we really had to coax him in (with the help of a lead). But after a couple of times, he loved to walk and wade around in the cool water, especially on the hot days. We could take him in the shallow water and walk along the shore a bit down from the cottage.

We want to thank all those (way to may to name) for bringing Wally Bear into our life. He has definitely become part of OUR family. If we have a chance to adopt another one in the future, we will! You are all special and part of our family too. We will make sure to send pictures and update you all on his life with us!

Friday, September 10, 2010

Brain Food

· 70,000 puppies and kittens are born every day in the U.S.
Between 4 million and 6 million pets are euthanized every year because they are homeless. That means between 11,000 and 16,000 pets are euthanized every day simply because they are homeless. An animal in a shelter is killed every 1.5 seconds.

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Come Visit Us in PA!

BDRA will be at the Montgomery County Scottish Irish Festival in Green Lane PA!

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2010

EVENT: Montgomery County Scottish Irish Festival

PLACE: Green Lane Park

2144 Snyder Rd.

Green Lane, Pa

TIME: 10am – 10pm




Newest BDRA Addition!

Meet Lambchop..

She will be traveling from Georgia to her new BDRA foster home in South Carolina this Saturday!
She will soon have her name changed and be available for adoption.

BDRA Dog "Bon Jovi" Update


Just wanted to let everyone know that Bon Jovi is doing great, is completely house
broken now. And has a new name. He never answered to Bon Jovi at all. So his
new name is Ami, as in Mon Ami, which means my friend in French, correct
me if I'm wrong our French speaking volunteers, or in Hebrew Ami means my
people, so either way, he's my friend and I'm his people. And he answered to
it right away.

He just absolutely loves my gang, he's very gentle with them and never
pounces on them or slaps them, which is normal behavior for Sibes.

He would make a great therapy dog, go visiting the elderly in nursing homes
or assisted living homes. He's so gentle and so sweet.

- Ami (Bon Jovi) 's Mom

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Traveling with pets.

Thanks to American Humane for these wonderful holiday travel with pets tips.

Some pets love traveling — while others find it extremely stressful. However, with increased awareness of the risks inherent in traveling with animals, owners can prepare and minimize undue stress on their pets. These travel tips from the American Humane Association can help ensure that holiday trips, and travels year-round, are safe and enjoyable for people and their pets.

1. Properly identify pets with ID tags and microchips — Make sure your pets have ID and current rabies tags and are microchipped. To be extra cautious, give your pets an additional tag with the address and phone number of where you will be staying for the duration of the trip, in case they get lost after you arrive.

2. Train pets to travel in their crates — Whether you’re heading to your holiday destination by plane, train or automobile, getting your pets used to their crates will make the entire traveling experience less stressful. Even when away from home, pets still view their crates as a safe haven from stressful situations.

3. With a crate, size does matter — Crates should be large enough for pets to stand and turn around in comfortably. Remember to keep water inside the crate or allow for breaks every three hours so that your pets can drink and stretch.

4. Never leave your pets unattended — Just as you would never leave a child unattended, never leave your pets alone in a car.

5. Be prepared — Take your pets’ health records with you, just in case they need to see a veterinarian during your trip. Be sure to ask your veterinarian if she recommends heartworm prevention or treatment for fleas or ticks for the area in which you are traveling. Keep pet dishes in your car, as well as extra water and pet food, in case of car trouble or bad weather.

6. To fly or not to fly — As a rule, puppies and kittens, sick animals, animals in heat, and frail or pregnant animals should not travel by air. If a pet is too large to fly in the cabin with you, perhaps a stay at a boarding kennel would be a safer choice. You should also plan ahead because many airlines have restrictions regarding pets, and your pets may need a health certificate to fly.

7. Visit your veterinarian — Your vet may prescribe a sedative to help reduce your pet’s stress level while traveling. However, sedatives are not always safe for pets so be sure to give your vet the details of how your pet will be traveling and how long the trip will take.

8. Boarding is an option — If your pets are too large to fly in the cabin with you, or if a long car ride might be too stressful for them, boarding your pets at a kennel may be a safer choice. Or you could hire a licensed pet sitter to take care of your pets in the comfort of your own home.

9. Try to keep pets on the same “schedule” — Stop when you would normally let your pets out at home and at feeding times.

10. Plan lodging ahead — Research your route, make reservations and carry a list of pet-friendly lodging along the way. Also, ask for a room on the ground floor so it is easier to walk your pets. Don’t let your pets stay in the car.

Thursday, September 2, 2010

He can Yodel too!


BDRA foster failure Kazoo is practicing to be a mountain climber.

Now that's the life....


Here's BDRA foster failure Pete, just being cute!

What a MOOCH!!


Foster Nikita is always looking for something to munch. You'd think we never feed her or something!

COMING SOON!

The special one year anniversary edition of our newsletter!
Wait till you see it!

Myths and facts about spaying and neutering

MYTH: My dog will get fat and lazy.

FACT: The only way your dog will get fat and lazy is if you do not provide enough exercise and feed him too much.

MYTH: It's better for my dog to have one litter before I spay her.

FACT: Medical evidence has shown that a dog who is spayed before her first heat cycle is typically healthier than dogs spayed after the first heat cycle or after having a litter of puppies. Most animal shelters and adoption facilities, as well as many veterinarians, now sterilize dogs as young as eight weeks of age. You should consult your veterinarian about the appropriate time to spay or neuter your dog.

MYTH: Children should experience the miracle of birth.

FACT: The likelihood of a child actually seeing a dog give birth is slim. Most births occur at night and in a secluded area. The only lesson the child learns is that dogs can be created and discarded as humans see fit. The real miracle your child should experience is the knowledge that by preventing your dog from having babies, you are potentially saving the lives of hundreds of other dogs.

MYTH: My dog is a purebred.

FACT: At least one out of every four dogs turned in to animal shelters around the country are purebred. There are just too many dogs bred, both mixed breed and purebred.

MYTH: My dog will not be protective if I neuter him.

FACT: A dog's natural instinct to protect his home and family is not affected by spaying or neutering. A dog's personality owes much more to genetics and environment than sex hormones.

MYTH: I don't want my male dog to feel like less of a male.

FACT: Dogs have no concept of sexual identity or ego and neutering does not change a dog's basic personality. He doesn't suffer in any way when neutered.

MYTH: My dog is so special; I want a puppy just like her.

FACT: A professional dog breeder, whose bloodlines stretch back for generations, has no guarantee of getting a particular characteristic from a litter. The dog owner's chances are even slimmer. In fact, a whole litter of puppies might wind up getting only the worst characteristics of your pet dog and her mate.

MYTH: Spaying and neutering is too expensive.

FACT: The cost of spaying or neutering is based on the age, size, and sex of the dog, your veterinarian's fees, and other variables. However, spay or neuter surgery is a one-time cost, and if you factor in the many benefits, such as improved health throughout your dog's lifetime, it is a relatively small charge. It's a bargain compared to the costs associated with raising a litter of puppies, such as exams for the mother dog, puppy checks and vaccinations, the extra food you need, etc. If complications arise and you need emergency veterinary services, the costs could rise into the thousands. There is also the amount of time you will need to devote to the mother dog and her babies; two months of pregnancy followed by two more months before the puppies are weaned and ready to go to new homes. Most importantly, the price is small when compared to the satisfaction of knowing that you are not contributing to the very real problem of too many dogs and too few homes available for them. You can also check with your local animal welfare organizations. Many of them offer low-cost spay and neuter services.

MYTH: I have good homes available for all of the puppies.

FACT: True, you may have homes for your puppies, but for every home you find, there is one less home available for a shelter dog. Moreover, do you have guarantees that the people who take your puppies will not breed them and thus add even more dogs to the problem? Remember, the dog overpopulation problem is created and perpetuated one litter at a time.

Source: Adapted from the Humane Society of the United States

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Smart Cookie!


Gabriel (was Ray) has settled in his foster home. Here he is with his 100 lb foster brother Max. Blind/deaf Gabriel also found the dog food container, managed to remove the lid and help himself to a snack.

Pit Bull Blues by John Shipe

The Video says it all! Pit Bulls are not the problem, people are. But thats for another Blog,in til then just enjoy the video.


Sunday, August 29, 2010

Exercising Senior dogs

Exercising Senior Dogs

We get a lot of questions about how the fulfillment formula – Exercise, Discipline, then Affection – changes as dogs age and don’t require as much physical activity and energy draining. Here are some tips to keep in mind as your dog enters his senior years.

We stress how important it is to get a dog that fits your energy level and lifestyle, but at some point, even the highest energy dogs that are in great health will slow down as they enter their senior years.

Nothing is more important than prevention, so it’s important that throughout your dog’s life, you are providing exercise, a nutritious diet, and supplements like Glucosamine as needed and recommended by your vet. Homeopathic remedies, like acupuncture, are becoming increasingly more popular for all kinds of conditions, especially arthritis which is common in older dogs who have been very active.

Swimming is a fantastic activity for dogs of all ages, but is particularly good for older dogs because it is low-impact and easy on their weakening joints and muscles. Swimming also builds strength, is good for their overall conditioning, and is naturally relaxing and comforting to most dogs.

When we think of aging, we think of medical conditions. But for many dogs, they age without any sign of illness at all. When Daddy was a senior, he had very little physical desires. He would get tired walking from my house to the neighbor’s house – it was like walking miles and miles for him – and we celebrated that walk the same way we did when he was younger and we’d return from a two-hour Pack Walk.

As he aged, it was not so much about the time spent walking, as it was about allowing him to stay where he wanted to be. This was his revised fulfillment formula. Daddy still wanted to be outside and experience nature, but he didn’t need to do it with the one and two and three year old pups. He could do it right in the back yard.

Tailoring the fulfillment formula as a dog ages to fit his needs is something that many humans have a hard time with. It’s no different than the fears we have aging as humans. But this is a natural part of life, and honoring that life is honoring your dog.

You don’t have to feel like you’re no longer giving the dog rules, boundaries, and limitations if you, for example, bring them their food instead of making them come to the kitchen or the yard to eat. “Room service” at this stage of life is acceptable. Remember that their body doesn’t match the mind any more – they might have trouble controlling their bladder and this isn’t something to punish. It’s a result of the kind of care we provide our dogs with in this country and many around the world. You’re not going to see a 14-year-old dog in a third world country very often. They just don’t have the same kind of care and nutrition.

Overall, remember that you don’t need to provide stimulation at this senior stage of their life. What you want to provide is relaxation. Give the dog a massage, help them when they need it (like using a ramp as you would for an elderly human who has difficulty getting up stairs), and be patient. Enjoy this time and celebrate their life!

http://www.cesarsway.com/tips/thebasics/Exercising-Senior-Dogs

Friday, August 27, 2010

Man Arrested for Rescuing dogs!

Here’s a breaking story that will make you scratch your head in wonder. An animal advocate in Los Angeles was arrested on Thursday after trying to rescue two dogs that were locked inside a foreclosed home because Animal Services was worried about getting sued.



Neighbors said that when the owners of the home left, they took all of their belongings except their two dogs. A six-month old puppy was locked inside the house and another dog named Taz was left inside the garage.



Next door neighbor Elisa Woods became concerned for the well-being of the dogs when the temperature “got hotter” and “they were getting hungrier,” so she called for help.



L.A. Animal Services responded to her call and came with food and water, which they shoved through an open window in the house and slipped under a 2 inch opening in the garage. But the officers “didn’t enter the home.”



According to NBC news, the city is required to give a written warning to the owners before entering the home or removing the dogs. The owners have 24 hours to fix the problem.



Animal Services Officer Hoang Dinh said, “Possibility the people could come back and then they could turn this around and sue the city.”



Their actions, or lack or action “wasn’t good enough for animal rescuer Hans Petersen" who is with LA Animal Rescue Org.



He went inside the house and a few minutes later walked out with the puppy.



But before he could help Taz, LAPD arrived on the scene and arrested Petersen for “interfering with Animal Services as they conduct their duties.”

The puppy was taken to the South L.A. Animal Shelter, but Taz was left behind in the garage.



There is no word about how long the dogs had been abandoned or if their owners had left them with any food or water.



Updates to this story will be posted as details are uncovered.


What do you think about leaving abandoned dogs for 24 hours before taking them to safety?

Care2.com newsletter

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Seperation Anxiety in Dogs

Separation Anxiety

Since dogs are pack animals, it's not surprising when a dog experiences anxiety at being left alone. With the right help, most dogs can learn to remain alone calmly for reasonable lengths of time. Conditioning a dog to be able to do this is a real kindness that makes the dog's life more comfortable.

What is Separation Anxiety and What Isn't?

A dog going through a normal stage of chewing to help the teeth properly develop is not experiencing separation anxiety. Leaving the dog alone with a houseful of temptations to ease the tooth discomfort is a recipe for disaster.

A dog having housetraining accidents when the dog was never fully housetrained or because the dog is being required to hold it for longer than the dog can do so is not separation anxiety.

When the first chewing stage is over and the pup seems housetrained, people tend to think it's time to leave the pup alone loose in the house. Typically this might be around 5 to 7 months of age. A little time goes by, and suddenly the dog starts destructive chewing. This is due to normal tooth development, but you can turn it into separation anxiety if you handle it badly.

Be prepared for an immature dog to need a lot of help from you to develop proper chewing habits. Don't leave the dog unsupervised in the presence of things that are valuable to you, or things that could harm a chewing dog, until the dog is truly ready. This comes after you've helped the dog develop reliable habits of always going for dog toys to chew and never for people stuff. It also requires some maturity in the dog, often age two years for larger breeds.

How to Give Your Pup or New Dog a Good Start

Getting your dog used to being alone without anxiety ideally begins in puppyhood. The pup's breeder may have started the process by using crates to get each pup in the litter first used to sleeping in a crate along with other pups, and eventually sleeping alone in a crate. The crate time is integrated into the pup's schedule so physical needs are met and the pup will not feel the need to go to the bathroom while crated. A foundation with the crate is more likely with top breeders who keep their pups longer and provide early socialization and training before placing them in homes. Such pups have had an excellent start in life.

Whether or not the pup has had prior conditioning to the crate, the first night in your home means the added stress of the pup being away from the canine and human family that has represented safety. It's no wonder pups tend to make so much noise when left alone, calling out for someone to come and save them. After all, being left alone in the wild would mean death to a pup.

Puppies come with a full set of instincts that are refined by their experiences into the instincts that will become strongest in their adult lives. If you want to encourage the instinct of screaming for someone to come whenever the dog is left alone, just keep running to the pup every time the pup screams! Soon you will have created a pup who pitches a fit when left alone.

If you wait and wait while the pup screams and screams, and then you finally go to the pup, you have now created a pup who will scream even more persistently-because the pup has learned that you need a lot of screaming to get you to come, but you will eventually come. So, screaming for a long time pays. To avoid this problem, do NOT go to a pup who is in the act of making noise. Always wait until the pup is quiet before you go to the pup.

You can ease a pup's conditioning to a crate by putting the crate in the room with a person while the pup gets used to sleeping in it. Ideally, crate time will be time the pup needs to rest anyway. Dogs sleep 14 or more hours a day. A crate needs to be the dog's safe, relaxing haven, not a prison. The schedule will determine which it is.

Separation anxiety and extreme stress over being crated are highly likely in a dog who is confined to a crate for an abusive amount of time. Once this has been done, especially repeatedly, it is not always possible to rehabilitate the dog and make it able to rest calmly in a crate, so it's important not to make this mistake.

Don't ask a pup to hold it for longer than the number of hours equaling the pup's age in months plus one. In other words, at 8 weeks, your pup needs someone to come home within 3 hours (two months plus one) to give the pup a potty break. At any age, make the top limit 8 hours.

Some dogs will never physically be able to hold it even 8 hours. Some will make it longer, but every time you ask a dog to do that, you're taking a big risk of creating future separation anxiety. When you are home and awake, take the dog out often (at least once per hour until housetraining is complete), so that the dog's elimination processes can make up for the lost time.

Leaving the pup with desirable toys helps reduce the risk of separation anxiety, too. Different dogs find different toys desirable. A pup may do well with three toys, offering a variety of chewing textures. Do your best to screen each item for safety with your particular pup before leaving the pup alone with it. If all goes well, your pup will be learning to chew appropriate items to satisfy chewing needs, learning to accept time alone calmly, and developing the physical ability to hold bowels and bladder for housetraining, all at the same time.

Pups and dogs need conditioning to separation from other dogs in the family. Keeping two dogs always together is not good for their long-term mental health. If you have multiple dogs, take each of them away from the other with you away from the home regularly. This will usually avoid the problem of a dog who experiences intense stress when separated from a dog packmate. Since such separations are unavoidable at times, it's a great kindness to condition your dogs be able to handle them comfortably. It will also make managing your dogs much easier through the years.

Your Comings and Goings

With any age dog, you can do a lot to prevent separation anxiety, and to cure it once it occurs, by leaving the house calmly whenever you go, and coming home calmly whenever you return. This is difficult for many people to do.

Perhaps you feel guilty about leaving your dog alone. So you go out the door with a big emotional farewell. Or maybe you're worried about what the dog might do while you're gone, so you try a stern word in advance. Either way, you've just added anxiety to the dog's experience of your leaving. Resist the temptation. Instead, calmly walk out the door.

The same problems happen in reverse when people come home; only this is the most emotionally loaded time, the time that causes the most problems. First, people love that insanely wild greeting dogs give. If you encourage this insanity, here's what you get: a scratched door, damaged window treatments, a dog who may attack another dog, cat, or home furnishings when you're just a little slower to get the door open, and a dog who is more prone to separation anxiety.

Is it worth messing up your dog just so you can get the ego boost of the dog acting like you're the greatest person in the world in the craziest possible way? There are other ways a dog can show love and respect for you that are healthy. Come into your house quietly, and help your dog learn that your homecomings are normal, not reasons to go bonkers.

The second mistake people make when they return home is to punish-even scolding is punishment to a dog-for something that happened while they were gone. Now the dog is going to both anticipate and dread your return home. And your punishment will have taught the dog NOTHING, except to fear and distrust your reactions.

The dog's submissive posture when faced with an angry owner convinces people that the dog "knows what he did wrong." No, the dog does NOT know. The dog knows you're angry, and does what dogs do to try to pacify an angry pack leader: the dog submits.

Avoid this guaranteed method of creating separation anxiety in your dog by leaving the dog in the proper situation where damage is not going to happen. Either confine the dog to a safe area, or confine your stuff where the dog can't reach it.

Changes

Separation anxiety often results from changes in a dog's life. A dog adopted from rescue or a shelter who has experienced traumatic changes of homes is a strong candidate for separation anxiety.

A family moving with the dog to a new home can trigger separation anxiety, especially if the move includes a change in the dog's routine. A change in routine can trigger separation anxiety without moving, too, particularly if the new routine does not adequately meet the dog's needs. One example would be a new household schedule that results in the dog having to wait too long between potty trips. It's so easy to overlook a seemingly unimportant part of your routine that in actuality is essential for the dog.

Having a human or animal family member move out of the house, or a new one move in, can also trigger separation anxiety. Part of the reason can be the resulting change in the dog's routine. People may be treating the dog differently, too. Try to break down the dog's needs and schedule, and see what has changed, and how you might be able to improve it to better provide for the dog.

Severe Cases

Severe separation anxiety might be defined as a dog who is physically suffering. Sadly, you can create this situation by such human behaviors as going to your puppy in response to noise. The pup can become conditioned to virtually never give up screaming and clawing to get you to come, even when you won't be home for hours.

Whatever the cause, dogs have hurt themselves badly "fighting" a crate in this manner. Dogs have also jumped through glass windows, ripped doors apart, broken into houses, and repeatedly jumped fences and run from the property.

Some dogs lose bladder and bowel control. This is understandable when you realize that instead of having the benefits of physical processes that quiet bowels and bladder during sleep-what happens when a dog rests calmly in a crate-the anxious dog is not only awake, but upset. If you come home and scold for damage or housetraining messes, the dog will be even more anxious the next time. This is a truly vicious cycle that many people fall into with their suffering dogs.

At the point where the dog is suffering, it can be advisable to get help for your dog from a veterinary prescription for medication to help with separation anxiety. Don't expect miracles from medication. Without the proper behavior modification-human as well as canine-the medication is unlikely to work for the long term.

The goal is to use the medication on a temporary basis to relieve the dog's suffering and help the dog relax enough to benefit from the behavior modification the people provide. You will likely need the help of a behavior specialist to develop the program of behavior modification that fits your family. A veterinary behavior specialist can both prescribe medication and provide you with a behavior modification program. Your regular veterinarian can help you find a specialist, if you need one.

Behavior Remedies

To help a dog develop the ability to remain alone comfortably, the dog also needs to be comfortable when the people ARE home. This means a well-ordered life including the right exercise, training, feeding schedule, grooming, bonding with the family, bathroom schedule, medical care, and the sundry other things that dogs require.

Some cases of separation anxiety happen because the family truly cannot provide for the dog's basic needs. If this is the case with your situation, remember it's not the dog's fault. Seek help first through the source from which you got your dog-responsible breeder, rescue, shelter. There is often a lot more support available than you would ever imagine.

Done right, training helps a dog develop the confidence to remain calmly alone. Training also improves your bond with your dog, making the dog feel more secure that your home is permanent. This kind of training includes structure, and taking the dog away from the home to train and to practice. The outings are important in bonding the dog with you. There is also something about going OUT with you and coming BACK with you repeatedly that seems to help the dog work through the fears. A good, positive-method training class can work well, unless the dog or person has special needs. In that case, look for a good private trainer.

Conditioning the dog to rest calmly in a crate can take time. Keys can be short periods in the crate and giving treats while in the crate. Until the dog is comfortable in the crate, it's essential not to confine the dog to the crate too long and trigger a panic that would undo all your good conditioning.

It also helps to leave your home and return in a short time, over and over, until the dog gets used to your comings and goings. The dog is picking up the pattern that when you leave, you will come back. Remember to keep all your comings and goings CALM.

Do take care of your dog's food, water, and potty needs before and after your absences, but avoid high emotion in the ways you do this. For example, don't take the dog for an intense and exhilarating exercise session, dash home, drop off the dog, and leave. You want the dog calm at the time you leave, not all wound up.

Similarly, if you must potty the dog immediately on returning home because of how long the dog has been alone, keep the outing low-key. Postpone feeding for at least a few minutes after your return. Remember that you don't want the dog wildly anticipating your return, and food is pretty darned important to most dogs. Feed your dog at least twice a day, so that one meal doesn't assume too much importance. This also reduces some health risks, such as seizure from low blood sugar, and gastric torsion from eating too much, too fast.

It helps some anxious dogs if you calmly present the dog with a special toy containing food, just as you leave. The idea is for the dog to wind down while enjoying this, and then sack out until you get home. A Kong toy with peanut butter inside can be a good choice.

Sometimes people try to solve separation anxiety by getting another dog as a companion for the anxious one. The result can be two dogs with separation anxiety, and the potential of a real wrecking crew! The best course with behavior problems is usually to work through one dog's problems before adding another dog to the home.

The dog who has developed separation anxiety after the loss of a long-time dog companion can sometimes benefit from having another dog join the family. If the dog and the family are truly ready for another dog, and the right dog is selected, this does sometimes work.

Looking at things from a dog's point of view is a great help in coping with separation anxiety. Sometimes it requires detective work to discover what is lacking in the dog's care. This effort always pays off in a better life for both people and dogs.


www.veterinarypartner.com
Date Published: 3/5/2003 12:23:00 PM
Date Reviewed/Revised: 03/10/2008