Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Pit Bull Blues by John Shipe
The Video says it all! Pit Bulls are not the problem, people are. But thats for another Blog,in til then just enjoy the video.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Exercising Senior dogs
Exercising Senior Dogs
We get a lot of questions about how the fulfillment formula – Exercise, Discipline, then Affection – changes as dogs age and don’t require as much physical activity and energy draining. Here are some tips to keep in mind as your dog enters his senior years.
We stress how important it is to get a dog that fits your energy level and lifestyle, but at some point, even the highest energy dogs that are in great health will slow down as they enter their senior years.
Nothing is more important than prevention, so it’s important that throughout your dog’s life, you are providing exercise, a nutritious diet, and supplements like Glucosamine as needed and recommended by your vet. Homeopathic remedies, like acupuncture, are becoming increasingly more popular for all kinds of conditions, especially arthritis which is common in older dogs who have been very active.
Swimming is a fantastic activity for dogs of all ages, but is particularly good for older dogs because it is low-impact and easy on their weakening joints and muscles. Swimming also builds strength, is good for their overall conditioning, and is naturally relaxing and comforting to most dogs.
When we think of aging, we think of medical conditions. But for many dogs, they age without any sign of illness at all. When Daddy was a senior, he had very little physical desires. He would get tired walking from my house to the neighbor’s house – it was like walking miles and miles for him – and we celebrated that walk the same way we did when he was younger and we’d return from a two-hour Pack Walk.
As he aged, it was not so much about the time spent walking, as it was about allowing him to stay where he wanted to be. This was his revised fulfillment formula. Daddy still wanted to be outside and experience nature, but he didn’t need to do it with the one and two and three year old pups. He could do it right in the back yard.
Tailoring the fulfillment formula as a dog ages to fit his needs is something that many humans have a hard time with. It’s no different than the fears we have aging as humans. But this is a natural part of life, and honoring that life is honoring your dog.
You don’t have to feel like you’re no longer giving the dog rules, boundaries, and limitations if you, for example, bring them their food instead of making them come to the kitchen or the yard to eat. “Room service” at this stage of life is acceptable. Remember that their body doesn’t match the mind any more – they might have trouble controlling their bladder and this isn’t something to punish. It’s a result of the kind of care we provide our dogs with in this country and many around the world. You’re not going to see a 14-year-old dog in a third world country very often. They just don’t have the same kind of care and nutrition.
Overall, remember that you don’t need to provide stimulation at this senior stage of their life. What you want to provide is relaxation. Give the dog a massage, help them when they need it (like using a ramp as you would for an elderly human who has difficulty getting up stairs), and be patient. Enjoy this time and celebrate their life!
http://www.cesarsway.com/tips/thebasics/Exercising-Senior-Dogs
We get a lot of questions about how the fulfillment formula – Exercise, Discipline, then Affection – changes as dogs age and don’t require as much physical activity and energy draining. Here are some tips to keep in mind as your dog enters his senior years.
We stress how important it is to get a dog that fits your energy level and lifestyle, but at some point, even the highest energy dogs that are in great health will slow down as they enter their senior years.
Nothing is more important than prevention, so it’s important that throughout your dog’s life, you are providing exercise, a nutritious diet, and supplements like Glucosamine as needed and recommended by your vet. Homeopathic remedies, like acupuncture, are becoming increasingly more popular for all kinds of conditions, especially arthritis which is common in older dogs who have been very active.
Swimming is a fantastic activity for dogs of all ages, but is particularly good for older dogs because it is low-impact and easy on their weakening joints and muscles. Swimming also builds strength, is good for their overall conditioning, and is naturally relaxing and comforting to most dogs.
When we think of aging, we think of medical conditions. But for many dogs, they age without any sign of illness at all. When Daddy was a senior, he had very little physical desires. He would get tired walking from my house to the neighbor’s house – it was like walking miles and miles for him – and we celebrated that walk the same way we did when he was younger and we’d return from a two-hour Pack Walk.
As he aged, it was not so much about the time spent walking, as it was about allowing him to stay where he wanted to be. This was his revised fulfillment formula. Daddy still wanted to be outside and experience nature, but he didn’t need to do it with the one and two and three year old pups. He could do it right in the back yard.
Tailoring the fulfillment formula as a dog ages to fit his needs is something that many humans have a hard time with. It’s no different than the fears we have aging as humans. But this is a natural part of life, and honoring that life is honoring your dog.
You don’t have to feel like you’re no longer giving the dog rules, boundaries, and limitations if you, for example, bring them their food instead of making them come to the kitchen or the yard to eat. “Room service” at this stage of life is acceptable. Remember that their body doesn’t match the mind any more – they might have trouble controlling their bladder and this isn’t something to punish. It’s a result of the kind of care we provide our dogs with in this country and many around the world. You’re not going to see a 14-year-old dog in a third world country very often. They just don’t have the same kind of care and nutrition.
Overall, remember that you don’t need to provide stimulation at this senior stage of their life. What you want to provide is relaxation. Give the dog a massage, help them when they need it (like using a ramp as you would for an elderly human who has difficulty getting up stairs), and be patient. Enjoy this time and celebrate their life!
http://www.cesarsway.com/tips/thebasics/Exercising-Senior-Dogs
Friday, August 27, 2010
Man Arrested for Rescuing dogs!
Here’s a breaking story that will make you scratch your head in wonder. An animal advocate in Los Angeles was arrested on Thursday after trying to rescue two dogs that were locked inside a foreclosed home because Animal Services was worried about getting sued.
Neighbors said that when the owners of the home left, they took all of their belongings except their two dogs. A six-month old puppy was locked inside the house and another dog named Taz was left inside the garage.
Next door neighbor Elisa Woods became concerned for the well-being of the dogs when the temperature “got hotter” and “they were getting hungrier,” so she called for help.
L.A. Animal Services responded to her call and came with food and water, which they shoved through an open window in the house and slipped under a 2 inch opening in the garage. But the officers “didn’t enter the home.”
According to NBC news, the city is required to give a written warning to the owners before entering the home or removing the dogs. The owners have 24 hours to fix the problem.
Animal Services Officer Hoang Dinh said, “Possibility the people could come back and then they could turn this around and sue the city.”
Their actions, or lack or action “wasn’t good enough for animal rescuer Hans Petersen" who is with LA Animal Rescue Org.
He went inside the house and a few minutes later walked out with the puppy.
But before he could help Taz, LAPD arrived on the scene and arrested Petersen for “interfering with Animal Services as they conduct their duties.”
The puppy was taken to the South L.A. Animal Shelter, but Taz was left behind in the garage.
There is no word about how long the dogs had been abandoned or if their owners had left them with any food or water.
Updates to this story will be posted as details are uncovered.
What do you think about leaving abandoned dogs for 24 hours before taking them to safety?
Care2.com newsletter
Neighbors said that when the owners of the home left, they took all of their belongings except their two dogs. A six-month old puppy was locked inside the house and another dog named Taz was left inside the garage.
Next door neighbor Elisa Woods became concerned for the well-being of the dogs when the temperature “got hotter” and “they were getting hungrier,” so she called for help.
L.A. Animal Services responded to her call and came with food and water, which they shoved through an open window in the house and slipped under a 2 inch opening in the garage. But the officers “didn’t enter the home.”
According to NBC news, the city is required to give a written warning to the owners before entering the home or removing the dogs. The owners have 24 hours to fix the problem.
Animal Services Officer Hoang Dinh said, “Possibility the people could come back and then they could turn this around and sue the city.”
Their actions, or lack or action “wasn’t good enough for animal rescuer Hans Petersen" who is with LA Animal Rescue Org.
He went inside the house and a few minutes later walked out with the puppy.
But before he could help Taz, LAPD arrived on the scene and arrested Petersen for “interfering with Animal Services as they conduct their duties.”
The puppy was taken to the South L.A. Animal Shelter, but Taz was left behind in the garage.
There is no word about how long the dogs had been abandoned or if their owners had left them with any food or water.
Updates to this story will be posted as details are uncovered.
What do you think about leaving abandoned dogs for 24 hours before taking them to safety?
Care2.com newsletter
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Seperation Anxiety in Dogs
Separation Anxiety
Since dogs are pack animals, it's not surprising when a dog experiences anxiety at being left alone. With the right help, most dogs can learn to remain alone calmly for reasonable lengths of time. Conditioning a dog to be able to do this is a real kindness that makes the dog's life more comfortable.
What is Separation Anxiety and What Isn't?
A dog going through a normal stage of chewing to help the teeth properly develop is not experiencing separation anxiety. Leaving the dog alone with a houseful of temptations to ease the tooth discomfort is a recipe for disaster.
A dog having housetraining accidents when the dog was never fully housetrained or because the dog is being required to hold it for longer than the dog can do so is not separation anxiety.
When the first chewing stage is over and the pup seems housetrained, people tend to think it's time to leave the pup alone loose in the house. Typically this might be around 5 to 7 months of age. A little time goes by, and suddenly the dog starts destructive chewing. This is due to normal tooth development, but you can turn it into separation anxiety if you handle it badly.
Be prepared for an immature dog to need a lot of help from you to develop proper chewing habits. Don't leave the dog unsupervised in the presence of things that are valuable to you, or things that could harm a chewing dog, until the dog is truly ready. This comes after you've helped the dog develop reliable habits of always going for dog toys to chew and never for people stuff. It also requires some maturity in the dog, often age two years for larger breeds.
How to Give Your Pup or New Dog a Good Start
Getting your dog used to being alone without anxiety ideally begins in puppyhood. The pup's breeder may have started the process by using crates to get each pup in the litter first used to sleeping in a crate along with other pups, and eventually sleeping alone in a crate. The crate time is integrated into the pup's schedule so physical needs are met and the pup will not feel the need to go to the bathroom while crated. A foundation with the crate is more likely with top breeders who keep their pups longer and provide early socialization and training before placing them in homes. Such pups have had an excellent start in life.
Whether or not the pup has had prior conditioning to the crate, the first night in your home means the added stress of the pup being away from the canine and human family that has represented safety. It's no wonder pups tend to make so much noise when left alone, calling out for someone to come and save them. After all, being left alone in the wild would mean death to a pup.
Puppies come with a full set of instincts that are refined by their experiences into the instincts that will become strongest in their adult lives. If you want to encourage the instinct of screaming for someone to come whenever the dog is left alone, just keep running to the pup every time the pup screams! Soon you will have created a pup who pitches a fit when left alone.
If you wait and wait while the pup screams and screams, and then you finally go to the pup, you have now created a pup who will scream even more persistently-because the pup has learned that you need a lot of screaming to get you to come, but you will eventually come. So, screaming for a long time pays. To avoid this problem, do NOT go to a pup who is in the act of making noise. Always wait until the pup is quiet before you go to the pup.
You can ease a pup's conditioning to a crate by putting the crate in the room with a person while the pup gets used to sleeping in it. Ideally, crate time will be time the pup needs to rest anyway. Dogs sleep 14 or more hours a day. A crate needs to be the dog's safe, relaxing haven, not a prison. The schedule will determine which it is.
Separation anxiety and extreme stress over being crated are highly likely in a dog who is confined to a crate for an abusive amount of time. Once this has been done, especially repeatedly, it is not always possible to rehabilitate the dog and make it able to rest calmly in a crate, so it's important not to make this mistake.
Don't ask a pup to hold it for longer than the number of hours equaling the pup's age in months plus one. In other words, at 8 weeks, your pup needs someone to come home within 3 hours (two months plus one) to give the pup a potty break. At any age, make the top limit 8 hours.
Some dogs will never physically be able to hold it even 8 hours. Some will make it longer, but every time you ask a dog to do that, you're taking a big risk of creating future separation anxiety. When you are home and awake, take the dog out often (at least once per hour until housetraining is complete), so that the dog's elimination processes can make up for the lost time.
Leaving the pup with desirable toys helps reduce the risk of separation anxiety, too. Different dogs find different toys desirable. A pup may do well with three toys, offering a variety of chewing textures. Do your best to screen each item for safety with your particular pup before leaving the pup alone with it. If all goes well, your pup will be learning to chew appropriate items to satisfy chewing needs, learning to accept time alone calmly, and developing the physical ability to hold bowels and bladder for housetraining, all at the same time.
Pups and dogs need conditioning to separation from other dogs in the family. Keeping two dogs always together is not good for their long-term mental health. If you have multiple dogs, take each of them away from the other with you away from the home regularly. This will usually avoid the problem of a dog who experiences intense stress when separated from a dog packmate. Since such separations are unavoidable at times, it's a great kindness to condition your dogs be able to handle them comfortably. It will also make managing your dogs much easier through the years.
Your Comings and Goings
With any age dog, you can do a lot to prevent separation anxiety, and to cure it once it occurs, by leaving the house calmly whenever you go, and coming home calmly whenever you return. This is difficult for many people to do.
Perhaps you feel guilty about leaving your dog alone. So you go out the door with a big emotional farewell. Or maybe you're worried about what the dog might do while you're gone, so you try a stern word in advance. Either way, you've just added anxiety to the dog's experience of your leaving. Resist the temptation. Instead, calmly walk out the door.
The same problems happen in reverse when people come home; only this is the most emotionally loaded time, the time that causes the most problems. First, people love that insanely wild greeting dogs give. If you encourage this insanity, here's what you get: a scratched door, damaged window treatments, a dog who may attack another dog, cat, or home furnishings when you're just a little slower to get the door open, and a dog who is more prone to separation anxiety.
Is it worth messing up your dog just so you can get the ego boost of the dog acting like you're the greatest person in the world in the craziest possible way? There are other ways a dog can show love and respect for you that are healthy. Come into your house quietly, and help your dog learn that your homecomings are normal, not reasons to go bonkers.
The second mistake people make when they return home is to punish-even scolding is punishment to a dog-for something that happened while they were gone. Now the dog is going to both anticipate and dread your return home. And your punishment will have taught the dog NOTHING, except to fear and distrust your reactions.
The dog's submissive posture when faced with an angry owner convinces people that the dog "knows what he did wrong." No, the dog does NOT know. The dog knows you're angry, and does what dogs do to try to pacify an angry pack leader: the dog submits.
Avoid this guaranteed method of creating separation anxiety in your dog by leaving the dog in the proper situation where damage is not going to happen. Either confine the dog to a safe area, or confine your stuff where the dog can't reach it.
Changes
Separation anxiety often results from changes in a dog's life. A dog adopted from rescue or a shelter who has experienced traumatic changes of homes is a strong candidate for separation anxiety.
A family moving with the dog to a new home can trigger separation anxiety, especially if the move includes a change in the dog's routine. A change in routine can trigger separation anxiety without moving, too, particularly if the new routine does not adequately meet the dog's needs. One example would be a new household schedule that results in the dog having to wait too long between potty trips. It's so easy to overlook a seemingly unimportant part of your routine that in actuality is essential for the dog.
Having a human or animal family member move out of the house, or a new one move in, can also trigger separation anxiety. Part of the reason can be the resulting change in the dog's routine. People may be treating the dog differently, too. Try to break down the dog's needs and schedule, and see what has changed, and how you might be able to improve it to better provide for the dog.
Severe Cases
Severe separation anxiety might be defined as a dog who is physically suffering. Sadly, you can create this situation by such human behaviors as going to your puppy in response to noise. The pup can become conditioned to virtually never give up screaming and clawing to get you to come, even when you won't be home for hours.
Whatever the cause, dogs have hurt themselves badly "fighting" a crate in this manner. Dogs have also jumped through glass windows, ripped doors apart, broken into houses, and repeatedly jumped fences and run from the property.
Some dogs lose bladder and bowel control. This is understandable when you realize that instead of having the benefits of physical processes that quiet bowels and bladder during sleep-what happens when a dog rests calmly in a crate-the anxious dog is not only awake, but upset. If you come home and scold for damage or housetraining messes, the dog will be even more anxious the next time. This is a truly vicious cycle that many people fall into with their suffering dogs.
At the point where the dog is suffering, it can be advisable to get help for your dog from a veterinary prescription for medication to help with separation anxiety. Don't expect miracles from medication. Without the proper behavior modification-human as well as canine-the medication is unlikely to work for the long term.
The goal is to use the medication on a temporary basis to relieve the dog's suffering and help the dog relax enough to benefit from the behavior modification the people provide. You will likely need the help of a behavior specialist to develop the program of behavior modification that fits your family. A veterinary behavior specialist can both prescribe medication and provide you with a behavior modification program. Your regular veterinarian can help you find a specialist, if you need one.
Behavior Remedies
To help a dog develop the ability to remain alone comfortably, the dog also needs to be comfortable when the people ARE home. This means a well-ordered life including the right exercise, training, feeding schedule, grooming, bonding with the family, bathroom schedule, medical care, and the sundry other things that dogs require.
Some cases of separation anxiety happen because the family truly cannot provide for the dog's basic needs. If this is the case with your situation, remember it's not the dog's fault. Seek help first through the source from which you got your dog-responsible breeder, rescue, shelter. There is often a lot more support available than you would ever imagine.
Done right, training helps a dog develop the confidence to remain calmly alone. Training also improves your bond with your dog, making the dog feel more secure that your home is permanent. This kind of training includes structure, and taking the dog away from the home to train and to practice. The outings are important in bonding the dog with you. There is also something about going OUT with you and coming BACK with you repeatedly that seems to help the dog work through the fears. A good, positive-method training class can work well, unless the dog or person has special needs. In that case, look for a good private trainer.
Conditioning the dog to rest calmly in a crate can take time. Keys can be short periods in the crate and giving treats while in the crate. Until the dog is comfortable in the crate, it's essential not to confine the dog to the crate too long and trigger a panic that would undo all your good conditioning.
It also helps to leave your home and return in a short time, over and over, until the dog gets used to your comings and goings. The dog is picking up the pattern that when you leave, you will come back. Remember to keep all your comings and goings CALM.
Do take care of your dog's food, water, and potty needs before and after your absences, but avoid high emotion in the ways you do this. For example, don't take the dog for an intense and exhilarating exercise session, dash home, drop off the dog, and leave. You want the dog calm at the time you leave, not all wound up.
Similarly, if you must potty the dog immediately on returning home because of how long the dog has been alone, keep the outing low-key. Postpone feeding for at least a few minutes after your return. Remember that you don't want the dog wildly anticipating your return, and food is pretty darned important to most dogs. Feed your dog at least twice a day, so that one meal doesn't assume too much importance. This also reduces some health risks, such as seizure from low blood sugar, and gastric torsion from eating too much, too fast.
It helps some anxious dogs if you calmly present the dog with a special toy containing food, just as you leave. The idea is for the dog to wind down while enjoying this, and then sack out until you get home. A Kong toy with peanut butter inside can be a good choice.
Sometimes people try to solve separation anxiety by getting another dog as a companion for the anxious one. The result can be two dogs with separation anxiety, and the potential of a real wrecking crew! The best course with behavior problems is usually to work through one dog's problems before adding another dog to the home.
The dog who has developed separation anxiety after the loss of a long-time dog companion can sometimes benefit from having another dog join the family. If the dog and the family are truly ready for another dog, and the right dog is selected, this does sometimes work.
Looking at things from a dog's point of view is a great help in coping with separation anxiety. Sometimes it requires detective work to discover what is lacking in the dog's care. This effort always pays off in a better life for both people and dogs.
www.veterinarypartner.com
Date Published: 3/5/2003 12:23:00 PM
Date Reviewed/Revised: 03/10/2008
Since dogs are pack animals, it's not surprising when a dog experiences anxiety at being left alone. With the right help, most dogs can learn to remain alone calmly for reasonable lengths of time. Conditioning a dog to be able to do this is a real kindness that makes the dog's life more comfortable.
What is Separation Anxiety and What Isn't?
A dog going through a normal stage of chewing to help the teeth properly develop is not experiencing separation anxiety. Leaving the dog alone with a houseful of temptations to ease the tooth discomfort is a recipe for disaster.
A dog having housetraining accidents when the dog was never fully housetrained or because the dog is being required to hold it for longer than the dog can do so is not separation anxiety.
When the first chewing stage is over and the pup seems housetrained, people tend to think it's time to leave the pup alone loose in the house. Typically this might be around 5 to 7 months of age. A little time goes by, and suddenly the dog starts destructive chewing. This is due to normal tooth development, but you can turn it into separation anxiety if you handle it badly.
Be prepared for an immature dog to need a lot of help from you to develop proper chewing habits. Don't leave the dog unsupervised in the presence of things that are valuable to you, or things that could harm a chewing dog, until the dog is truly ready. This comes after you've helped the dog develop reliable habits of always going for dog toys to chew and never for people stuff. It also requires some maturity in the dog, often age two years for larger breeds.
How to Give Your Pup or New Dog a Good Start
Getting your dog used to being alone without anxiety ideally begins in puppyhood. The pup's breeder may have started the process by using crates to get each pup in the litter first used to sleeping in a crate along with other pups, and eventually sleeping alone in a crate. The crate time is integrated into the pup's schedule so physical needs are met and the pup will not feel the need to go to the bathroom while crated. A foundation with the crate is more likely with top breeders who keep their pups longer and provide early socialization and training before placing them in homes. Such pups have had an excellent start in life.
Whether or not the pup has had prior conditioning to the crate, the first night in your home means the added stress of the pup being away from the canine and human family that has represented safety. It's no wonder pups tend to make so much noise when left alone, calling out for someone to come and save them. After all, being left alone in the wild would mean death to a pup.
Puppies come with a full set of instincts that are refined by their experiences into the instincts that will become strongest in their adult lives. If you want to encourage the instinct of screaming for someone to come whenever the dog is left alone, just keep running to the pup every time the pup screams! Soon you will have created a pup who pitches a fit when left alone.
If you wait and wait while the pup screams and screams, and then you finally go to the pup, you have now created a pup who will scream even more persistently-because the pup has learned that you need a lot of screaming to get you to come, but you will eventually come. So, screaming for a long time pays. To avoid this problem, do NOT go to a pup who is in the act of making noise. Always wait until the pup is quiet before you go to the pup.
You can ease a pup's conditioning to a crate by putting the crate in the room with a person while the pup gets used to sleeping in it. Ideally, crate time will be time the pup needs to rest anyway. Dogs sleep 14 or more hours a day. A crate needs to be the dog's safe, relaxing haven, not a prison. The schedule will determine which it is.
Separation anxiety and extreme stress over being crated are highly likely in a dog who is confined to a crate for an abusive amount of time. Once this has been done, especially repeatedly, it is not always possible to rehabilitate the dog and make it able to rest calmly in a crate, so it's important not to make this mistake.
Don't ask a pup to hold it for longer than the number of hours equaling the pup's age in months plus one. In other words, at 8 weeks, your pup needs someone to come home within 3 hours (two months plus one) to give the pup a potty break. At any age, make the top limit 8 hours.
Some dogs will never physically be able to hold it even 8 hours. Some will make it longer, but every time you ask a dog to do that, you're taking a big risk of creating future separation anxiety. When you are home and awake, take the dog out often (at least once per hour until housetraining is complete), so that the dog's elimination processes can make up for the lost time.
Leaving the pup with desirable toys helps reduce the risk of separation anxiety, too. Different dogs find different toys desirable. A pup may do well with three toys, offering a variety of chewing textures. Do your best to screen each item for safety with your particular pup before leaving the pup alone with it. If all goes well, your pup will be learning to chew appropriate items to satisfy chewing needs, learning to accept time alone calmly, and developing the physical ability to hold bowels and bladder for housetraining, all at the same time.
Pups and dogs need conditioning to separation from other dogs in the family. Keeping two dogs always together is not good for their long-term mental health. If you have multiple dogs, take each of them away from the other with you away from the home regularly. This will usually avoid the problem of a dog who experiences intense stress when separated from a dog packmate. Since such separations are unavoidable at times, it's a great kindness to condition your dogs be able to handle them comfortably. It will also make managing your dogs much easier through the years.
Your Comings and Goings
With any age dog, you can do a lot to prevent separation anxiety, and to cure it once it occurs, by leaving the house calmly whenever you go, and coming home calmly whenever you return. This is difficult for many people to do.
Perhaps you feel guilty about leaving your dog alone. So you go out the door with a big emotional farewell. Or maybe you're worried about what the dog might do while you're gone, so you try a stern word in advance. Either way, you've just added anxiety to the dog's experience of your leaving. Resist the temptation. Instead, calmly walk out the door.
The same problems happen in reverse when people come home; only this is the most emotionally loaded time, the time that causes the most problems. First, people love that insanely wild greeting dogs give. If you encourage this insanity, here's what you get: a scratched door, damaged window treatments, a dog who may attack another dog, cat, or home furnishings when you're just a little slower to get the door open, and a dog who is more prone to separation anxiety.
Is it worth messing up your dog just so you can get the ego boost of the dog acting like you're the greatest person in the world in the craziest possible way? There are other ways a dog can show love and respect for you that are healthy. Come into your house quietly, and help your dog learn that your homecomings are normal, not reasons to go bonkers.
The second mistake people make when they return home is to punish-even scolding is punishment to a dog-for something that happened while they were gone. Now the dog is going to both anticipate and dread your return home. And your punishment will have taught the dog NOTHING, except to fear and distrust your reactions.
The dog's submissive posture when faced with an angry owner convinces people that the dog "knows what he did wrong." No, the dog does NOT know. The dog knows you're angry, and does what dogs do to try to pacify an angry pack leader: the dog submits.
Avoid this guaranteed method of creating separation anxiety in your dog by leaving the dog in the proper situation where damage is not going to happen. Either confine the dog to a safe area, or confine your stuff where the dog can't reach it.
Changes
Separation anxiety often results from changes in a dog's life. A dog adopted from rescue or a shelter who has experienced traumatic changes of homes is a strong candidate for separation anxiety.
A family moving with the dog to a new home can trigger separation anxiety, especially if the move includes a change in the dog's routine. A change in routine can trigger separation anxiety without moving, too, particularly if the new routine does not adequately meet the dog's needs. One example would be a new household schedule that results in the dog having to wait too long between potty trips. It's so easy to overlook a seemingly unimportant part of your routine that in actuality is essential for the dog.
Having a human or animal family member move out of the house, or a new one move in, can also trigger separation anxiety. Part of the reason can be the resulting change in the dog's routine. People may be treating the dog differently, too. Try to break down the dog's needs and schedule, and see what has changed, and how you might be able to improve it to better provide for the dog.
Severe Cases
Severe separation anxiety might be defined as a dog who is physically suffering. Sadly, you can create this situation by such human behaviors as going to your puppy in response to noise. The pup can become conditioned to virtually never give up screaming and clawing to get you to come, even when you won't be home for hours.
Whatever the cause, dogs have hurt themselves badly "fighting" a crate in this manner. Dogs have also jumped through glass windows, ripped doors apart, broken into houses, and repeatedly jumped fences and run from the property.
Some dogs lose bladder and bowel control. This is understandable when you realize that instead of having the benefits of physical processes that quiet bowels and bladder during sleep-what happens when a dog rests calmly in a crate-the anxious dog is not only awake, but upset. If you come home and scold for damage or housetraining messes, the dog will be even more anxious the next time. This is a truly vicious cycle that many people fall into with their suffering dogs.
At the point where the dog is suffering, it can be advisable to get help for your dog from a veterinary prescription for medication to help with separation anxiety. Don't expect miracles from medication. Without the proper behavior modification-human as well as canine-the medication is unlikely to work for the long term.
The goal is to use the medication on a temporary basis to relieve the dog's suffering and help the dog relax enough to benefit from the behavior modification the people provide. You will likely need the help of a behavior specialist to develop the program of behavior modification that fits your family. A veterinary behavior specialist can both prescribe medication and provide you with a behavior modification program. Your regular veterinarian can help you find a specialist, if you need one.
Behavior Remedies
To help a dog develop the ability to remain alone comfortably, the dog also needs to be comfortable when the people ARE home. This means a well-ordered life including the right exercise, training, feeding schedule, grooming, bonding with the family, bathroom schedule, medical care, and the sundry other things that dogs require.
Some cases of separation anxiety happen because the family truly cannot provide for the dog's basic needs. If this is the case with your situation, remember it's not the dog's fault. Seek help first through the source from which you got your dog-responsible breeder, rescue, shelter. There is often a lot more support available than you would ever imagine.
Done right, training helps a dog develop the confidence to remain calmly alone. Training also improves your bond with your dog, making the dog feel more secure that your home is permanent. This kind of training includes structure, and taking the dog away from the home to train and to practice. The outings are important in bonding the dog with you. There is also something about going OUT with you and coming BACK with you repeatedly that seems to help the dog work through the fears. A good, positive-method training class can work well, unless the dog or person has special needs. In that case, look for a good private trainer.
Conditioning the dog to rest calmly in a crate can take time. Keys can be short periods in the crate and giving treats while in the crate. Until the dog is comfortable in the crate, it's essential not to confine the dog to the crate too long and trigger a panic that would undo all your good conditioning.
It also helps to leave your home and return in a short time, over and over, until the dog gets used to your comings and goings. The dog is picking up the pattern that when you leave, you will come back. Remember to keep all your comings and goings CALM.
Do take care of your dog's food, water, and potty needs before and after your absences, but avoid high emotion in the ways you do this. For example, don't take the dog for an intense and exhilarating exercise session, dash home, drop off the dog, and leave. You want the dog calm at the time you leave, not all wound up.
Similarly, if you must potty the dog immediately on returning home because of how long the dog has been alone, keep the outing low-key. Postpone feeding for at least a few minutes after your return. Remember that you don't want the dog wildly anticipating your return, and food is pretty darned important to most dogs. Feed your dog at least twice a day, so that one meal doesn't assume too much importance. This also reduces some health risks, such as seizure from low blood sugar, and gastric torsion from eating too much, too fast.
It helps some anxious dogs if you calmly present the dog with a special toy containing food, just as you leave. The idea is for the dog to wind down while enjoying this, and then sack out until you get home. A Kong toy with peanut butter inside can be a good choice.
Sometimes people try to solve separation anxiety by getting another dog as a companion for the anxious one. The result can be two dogs with separation anxiety, and the potential of a real wrecking crew! The best course with behavior problems is usually to work through one dog's problems before adding another dog to the home.
The dog who has developed separation anxiety after the loss of a long-time dog companion can sometimes benefit from having another dog join the family. If the dog and the family are truly ready for another dog, and the right dog is selected, this does sometimes work.
Looking at things from a dog's point of view is a great help in coping with separation anxiety. Sometimes it requires detective work to discover what is lacking in the dog's care. This effort always pays off in a better life for both people and dogs.
www.veterinarypartner.com
Date Published: 3/5/2003 12:23:00 PM
Date Reviewed/Revised: 03/10/2008
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Pet food
The AAFCO admits that rendered dogs and cats could be in your dog's food.
http://bullmarketfrogs.com/blog/2010/08/aafco-admits-rendered-pets-in-pet-food/
I would avoid any food that uses meat meal or bone meal, anything that doesn't specify the meat source specifically.
This website is great for explaining ingredients. I think that it's best for you to know what ingredients to look for and avoid so you can find a quality food.
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/
You can also look at this one which rates specific foods, and reviews the ingredients. You can look up brands here.
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/
Beware of two key ingredients,Here is the definations of those ingredients:
Also these ingredients:
Animal Fat
Note that the animal source is not specified and is not required to originate from "slaughtered" animals. The rendered animals can be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior to slaughter), goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters, restaurant and supermarket refuse and so on.
Animal Digest
A cooked-down broth made from unspecified parts of unspecified animals. The animals used can be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior to slaughter), goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters, restaurant and supermarket refuse and so on.
What do you feed yr pet? I would love to hear suggestions.
http://bullmarketfrogs.com/blog/2010/08/aafco-admits-rendered-pets-in-pet-food/
I would avoid any food that uses meat meal or bone meal, anything that doesn't specify the meat source specifically.
This website is great for explaining ingredients. I think that it's best for you to know what ingredients to look for and avoid so you can find a quality food.
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/
You can also look at this one which rates specific foods, and reviews the ingredients. You can look up brands here.
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/
Beware of two key ingredients,Here is the definations of those ingredients:
Also these ingredients:
Animal Fat
Note that the animal source is not specified and is not required to originate from "slaughtered" animals. The rendered animals can be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior to slaughter), goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters, restaurant and supermarket refuse and so on.
Animal Digest
A cooked-down broth made from unspecified parts of unspecified animals. The animals used can be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior to slaughter), goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters, restaurant and supermarket refuse and so on.
What do you feed yr pet? I would love to hear suggestions.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Get Pet Hair OFF and OUT of Your Home
Article provided by PetPlace.com~ Via Dogtime.com
If you have a pet, you know how frustrating pet hair can be. My cats leave hair everywhere. I vacuum, dust and clean the house only to see new tumbleweeds of hair rolling across the floor. I go out to dinner and look down to find beautiful cat hairs firmly attached to my suit.
In an attempt to learn tips about the most effective ways to deal with pet hair, we surveyed hundreds of PetPlace.com pet lovers to find out how they deal with pet hair in their homes, cars and on their clothes. Over 72% of our responders said that pet hair or fur was a substantial problem in their homes and lives. There is no magic solution to dealing with pet hair but we did get some great tips on how pet lovers all over the world effectively deal with the problem.
Where is pet hair a problem? In one word, everywhere.
Our users told us that pet hair was worst on the carpet or floor of their homes followed by "bad" all over the house, on the furniture and finally on their clothing. Most pet owners did not consider pet hair a big problem in their cars.
When do they shed? More than 85% responded that they thought their pet shed all the time with no seasonality. The other 15% thought shedding was bad seasonally.
How do our users deal with pet hair? The most common methods for dealing with pet hair are vacuuming and brushing pets. Approximately 93% vacuum or sweep regularly to deal with hair and 71% also try to regularly brush or groom their pets. About half of these users do the grooming or brushing themselves and about half use a groomer. Another common recommendation was tape rollers with about 59% of responders using a roller on their furniture or clothes.
Here are some tips from our users on how they effectively deal with pet hair in specific locations:
In the house
The number one method our pet lovers use to deal with pet hair in their homes is to vacuum. Followed by frequent changing of air filters and cleaning of bedding.
* Air Cleaners --make sure you change your air filters frequently.
* Bedding --wash at least weekly. Buy beds with washable covers or lay a blanket that can be easily laundered over their favorite resting spots.
* Flooring--The preferred type of floor to deal with pet hair is hardwood or tile. Carpet was the biggest problem for our pet owners.
* Brooms and vacuums --One user gets great results from a rubber broom: "I use one of those "squeegee-bristle" rubber brooms to scrape the cat hair off the carpet into a "ball." I then follow up with vacuuming." And... "You can use just about any BISSELL® vacuum to easily pick up those dog hair tumbleweeds and it reaches under furniture."
* Have flooring that matches your pet! A few users actually installed flooring to match their pets! "I took the easy way out--I bought carpets that don't show the golden retriever hair so easily because of the color. The hair is still there, just not as obvious." And... "Have carpet and floor that match your dogs fur. My Pergo® floor is light (Like blonde). Doesn't show from a yellow lab until it fur balls from the fine hair during shedding."
* Bottom of rubber soled shoe -- "When it's on the carpeted stairs; the bottom of my tennis shoes is good at removing it; that goes for car seats; and carpeting.........You can even put the shoe on your hand to remove the hair."
* Damp mopping - Seems to work on tile floor.
Furniture
* Rubber Gloves --Lots of users like rubber gloves to deal with hair on furniture. "The best way to remove cat hair from furniture/fabric is to wear Playtex® gloves. Rub glove(s) in 1 direction & watch your fur ball grow! You pick-up 98% on the 1st swipe!" And... "For pet hairs on furniture I use a rubber glove, and rub it over the chair or couch and the hair comes off!"
* Dry Sponge --A dry sponge can be used on furniture to help ball up hair. For most, it is more effective if slightly dampened.
* Slip covers or blankets --A common recommendation is to use different materials to cover furniture and wash them weekly. "Slip covers and blankets are great for covering up furniture because they can just be thrown in the washer."
* Cloths -- "A micro fiber cloth dry or dampened removes hair easily from furniture."
* Velcro-type lint brushes -- "I've found that those velcro-type lint brushes work best on the furniture and on my clothes."
Car
Use the same tips as given for clothing and furniture. Clothing
* Rubber glove --the rubber glove technique was a favorite for dealing with pet hair on furniture but also was recommended for clothing. Just put on the glove and brush hair away.
* Dry sponge --can also work on clothing depending on the fabric. However a damp sponge or hair roller tend to work slightly better.
* Damp sponge or cloth -- "A wet cloth if you have no other option will remove pet hair from clothing and material."
* Lint brushes --this can work great.
* Hair rollers --keep one in your home and one in your glove box. When you arrive at work or to your location and notice hair, you will be happy to have a roller handy in the glove box!
* Tape --our users wrote, "I don't have any tips other then have lots of inexpensive duct tape around for clothing. Take the duct tape and wrap it the wrong way around the roll and start rolling on clothes until it fills up then rip it off and start over again." And... "Packaging tape is a wonder...I rip a few pieces off stick them side by side and rip it off the couch cushions. Then I move to a different spot. This gets it off better than those rollers and the tape isn't as expensive. Works on my lamp she rubs against without damaging the shade. lol...."
* Hide your clothes --keep your clothing picked up and put away. Don't leave your clothes out where your pet can lay on them. Also, after you wash, be careful where you fold your clothes. It is tempting to dump the laundry basket on to a surface where your pet might like to lay that gets hair immediately on the clean clothes.
* Brushing and grooming --The second favorite way our users deal with pet hair is to " brush, brush, brush." Some hair coats shed more than others no matter what you do, but helping them shed their hair when the season changes reduces the hair in the house. Your pet's individual hair coat should be taken into consideration when buying grooming tools. Here is a great tip: "If you have your pet professionally groomed, ask to meet with the groomer. Ask their advice on the best brush or combs for your pets coat type. For example, some combs and brushes work better on short straight hair and others work better on dogs with thick undercoats. If you don't get your pet professionally groomed, then you may want to take your pet to a pet store and get advice on their grooming products." Many users like to combine regular brushing with grooming. Combining daily brushing (especially recommended outside) with monthly grooming can be very beneficial. Brushing on a regular basis makes a big difference.
* Brushes --Use a brush designed for your dog's hair coat. If he has an undercoat, use a "rake" type brush or a shedding blade. If he has long hair, you may want a variety. Many users liked the brushes that were built into a glove so their pets thought they were getting petted rather than brushed. "I use a glove 'brush' so my guys think I'm just petting them and don't fight being groomed. Also, if they'll let you, try vacuuming your pets. My rat terrier absolutely loves it and thinks it's a special treat." Vacuuming should be done with special care, as some pets may be frightened. Also, take special care as some vacuums may be too powerful and can harm the skin.
* Shampoos and Rinses --Some users thought a good quality shampoo and cream rinse helped minimize shedding. Most users don't think the individual products makes a huge difference but the physical act of bathing can help remove hair. Bathing is a good part of the overall brushing and grooming program.
* Choose your clothes carefully --Several users actually said they actually stopped wearing black clothing so pet hair would not be as obvious!
* Good quality food --Some users really thought their pets shed less when fed a better quality food. For example, "Feed a premium brand of dog food, since this will decrease the amount of shedding, by providing the dog with good nutrients."
* Vitamins --Some users thought vitamin supplements were helpful. This accounted for less than 0.05% of users.
* Professional help --Pet lovers that could afford it found great value in professional services such as housecleaning services. Having their homes professionally cleaned every two weeks can make a big difference.
Ultimately, to effectively deal with pet hair in your home, vacuum like crazy and groom your pets regularly. Daily vacuuming and brushing is best. The Bissell® line of vacuums are a real favorite!
*********************************
The L'Oreal YOur Dog is worth it too Fund raiser Raised over 600 Dollars for BDRA!
Great job everyone.
A seperate fund raiser was helt this weekend and raised over 300!
Thanks to everyone for giving of their time, and a special thanks to all those that donated.
If you have a pet, you know how frustrating pet hair can be. My cats leave hair everywhere. I vacuum, dust and clean the house only to see new tumbleweeds of hair rolling across the floor. I go out to dinner and look down to find beautiful cat hairs firmly attached to my suit.
In an attempt to learn tips about the most effective ways to deal with pet hair, we surveyed hundreds of PetPlace.com pet lovers to find out how they deal with pet hair in their homes, cars and on their clothes. Over 72% of our responders said that pet hair or fur was a substantial problem in their homes and lives. There is no magic solution to dealing with pet hair but we did get some great tips on how pet lovers all over the world effectively deal with the problem.
Where is pet hair a problem? In one word, everywhere.
Our users told us that pet hair was worst on the carpet or floor of their homes followed by "bad" all over the house, on the furniture and finally on their clothing. Most pet owners did not consider pet hair a big problem in their cars.
When do they shed? More than 85% responded that they thought their pet shed all the time with no seasonality. The other 15% thought shedding was bad seasonally.
How do our users deal with pet hair? The most common methods for dealing with pet hair are vacuuming and brushing pets. Approximately 93% vacuum or sweep regularly to deal with hair and 71% also try to regularly brush or groom their pets. About half of these users do the grooming or brushing themselves and about half use a groomer. Another common recommendation was tape rollers with about 59% of responders using a roller on their furniture or clothes.
Here are some tips from our users on how they effectively deal with pet hair in specific locations:
In the house
The number one method our pet lovers use to deal with pet hair in their homes is to vacuum. Followed by frequent changing of air filters and cleaning of bedding.
* Air Cleaners --make sure you change your air filters frequently.
* Bedding --wash at least weekly. Buy beds with washable covers or lay a blanket that can be easily laundered over their favorite resting spots.
* Flooring--The preferred type of floor to deal with pet hair is hardwood or tile. Carpet was the biggest problem for our pet owners.
* Brooms and vacuums --One user gets great results from a rubber broom: "I use one of those "squeegee-bristle" rubber brooms to scrape the cat hair off the carpet into a "ball." I then follow up with vacuuming." And... "You can use just about any BISSELL® vacuum to easily pick up those dog hair tumbleweeds and it reaches under furniture."
* Have flooring that matches your pet! A few users actually installed flooring to match their pets! "I took the easy way out--I bought carpets that don't show the golden retriever hair so easily because of the color. The hair is still there, just not as obvious." And... "Have carpet and floor that match your dogs fur. My Pergo® floor is light (Like blonde). Doesn't show from a yellow lab until it fur balls from the fine hair during shedding."
* Bottom of rubber soled shoe -- "When it's on the carpeted stairs; the bottom of my tennis shoes is good at removing it; that goes for car seats; and carpeting.........You can even put the shoe on your hand to remove the hair."
* Damp mopping - Seems to work on tile floor.
Furniture
* Rubber Gloves --Lots of users like rubber gloves to deal with hair on furniture. "The best way to remove cat hair from furniture/fabric is to wear Playtex® gloves. Rub glove(s) in 1 direction & watch your fur ball grow! You pick-up 98% on the 1st swipe!" And... "For pet hairs on furniture I use a rubber glove, and rub it over the chair or couch and the hair comes off!"
* Dry Sponge --A dry sponge can be used on furniture to help ball up hair. For most, it is more effective if slightly dampened.
* Slip covers or blankets --A common recommendation is to use different materials to cover furniture and wash them weekly. "Slip covers and blankets are great for covering up furniture because they can just be thrown in the washer."
* Cloths -- "A micro fiber cloth dry or dampened removes hair easily from furniture."
* Velcro-type lint brushes -- "I've found that those velcro-type lint brushes work best on the furniture and on my clothes."
Car
Use the same tips as given for clothing and furniture. Clothing
* Rubber glove --the rubber glove technique was a favorite for dealing with pet hair on furniture but also was recommended for clothing. Just put on the glove and brush hair away.
* Dry sponge --can also work on clothing depending on the fabric. However a damp sponge or hair roller tend to work slightly better.
* Damp sponge or cloth -- "A wet cloth if you have no other option will remove pet hair from clothing and material."
* Lint brushes --this can work great.
* Hair rollers --keep one in your home and one in your glove box. When you arrive at work or to your location and notice hair, you will be happy to have a roller handy in the glove box!
* Tape --our users wrote, "I don't have any tips other then have lots of inexpensive duct tape around for clothing. Take the duct tape and wrap it the wrong way around the roll and start rolling on clothes until it fills up then rip it off and start over again." And... "Packaging tape is a wonder...I rip a few pieces off stick them side by side and rip it off the couch cushions. Then I move to a different spot. This gets it off better than those rollers and the tape isn't as expensive. Works on my lamp she rubs against without damaging the shade. lol...."
* Hide your clothes --keep your clothing picked up and put away. Don't leave your clothes out where your pet can lay on them. Also, after you wash, be careful where you fold your clothes. It is tempting to dump the laundry basket on to a surface where your pet might like to lay that gets hair immediately on the clean clothes.
* Brushing and grooming --The second favorite way our users deal with pet hair is to " brush, brush, brush." Some hair coats shed more than others no matter what you do, but helping them shed their hair when the season changes reduces the hair in the house. Your pet's individual hair coat should be taken into consideration when buying grooming tools. Here is a great tip: "If you have your pet professionally groomed, ask to meet with the groomer. Ask their advice on the best brush or combs for your pets coat type. For example, some combs and brushes work better on short straight hair and others work better on dogs with thick undercoats. If you don't get your pet professionally groomed, then you may want to take your pet to a pet store and get advice on their grooming products." Many users like to combine regular brushing with grooming. Combining daily brushing (especially recommended outside) with monthly grooming can be very beneficial. Brushing on a regular basis makes a big difference.
* Brushes --Use a brush designed for your dog's hair coat. If he has an undercoat, use a "rake" type brush or a shedding blade. If he has long hair, you may want a variety. Many users liked the brushes that were built into a glove so their pets thought they were getting petted rather than brushed. "I use a glove 'brush' so my guys think I'm just petting them and don't fight being groomed. Also, if they'll let you, try vacuuming your pets. My rat terrier absolutely loves it and thinks it's a special treat." Vacuuming should be done with special care, as some pets may be frightened. Also, take special care as some vacuums may be too powerful and can harm the skin.
* Shampoos and Rinses --Some users thought a good quality shampoo and cream rinse helped minimize shedding. Most users don't think the individual products makes a huge difference but the physical act of bathing can help remove hair. Bathing is a good part of the overall brushing and grooming program.
* Choose your clothes carefully --Several users actually said they actually stopped wearing black clothing so pet hair would not be as obvious!
* Good quality food --Some users really thought their pets shed less when fed a better quality food. For example, "Feed a premium brand of dog food, since this will decrease the amount of shedding, by providing the dog with good nutrients."
* Vitamins --Some users thought vitamin supplements were helpful. This accounted for less than 0.05% of users.
* Professional help --Pet lovers that could afford it found great value in professional services such as housecleaning services. Having their homes professionally cleaned every two weeks can make a big difference.
Ultimately, to effectively deal with pet hair in your home, vacuum like crazy and groom your pets regularly. Daily vacuuming and brushing is best. The Bissell® line of vacuums are a real favorite!
*********************************
The L'Oreal YOur Dog is worth it too Fund raiser Raised over 600 Dollars for BDRA!
Great job everyone.
A seperate fund raiser was helt this weekend and raised over 300!
Thanks to everyone for giving of their time, and a special thanks to all those that donated.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Bacon Biscuits
There's nothing better than a nice sunday breakfast.
Hearty Bacon Biscuits
6 slices bacon (cooked, crumbled)
4 eggs (well beaten)
2 cup graham flour
2 cup wheat germ
1 cup water
1/2 cup dry milk (non-fat)
1/2 cup cornmeal
1/8 cup bacon fat
Crumble bacon and beat eggs. Mix all ingredients. Pour batter for individual biscuits on to a greased cookie sheet with a tablespoon. Bake for 15 minutes at 350. Dry overnight.
Hearty Bacon Biscuits
6 slices bacon (cooked, crumbled)
4 eggs (well beaten)
2 cup graham flour
2 cup wheat germ
1 cup water
1/2 cup dry milk (non-fat)
1/2 cup cornmeal
1/8 cup bacon fat
Crumble bacon and beat eggs. Mix all ingredients. Pour batter for individual biscuits on to a greased cookie sheet with a tablespoon. Bake for 15 minutes at 350. Dry overnight.
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Older pets
Seven out of ten dogs never make it out of the shelter. Sad statistics.
Everyone wants a cute puppy. Puppies grow up into adult dogs. What happens years later as your dog gets older?
Animals like people develop age related illnesses. Are you prepared for that? More importantly are you still going to love him when he gets older? Or are you going to take You beloved pet to the shelter claiming "you just found him"?
Your pet will probably die at the shelter because he is older. And if by chance he has a disability. While the shelter paperwork is being done. The worker will likely put euthanize on his paperwork. Only a miracle will save him then.
So let me ask you. Does your beloved pet ,who gave you love and companionship deserve this fate?
No he does not! Now he needs you love and your patience more than ever!
You made a promise when you adopted him. You promised that you would love him forever, not just in til it got inconvenient.
She deserves for you to keep that promise.
Everyone wants a cute puppy. Puppies grow up into adult dogs. What happens years later as your dog gets older?
Animals like people develop age related illnesses. Are you prepared for that? More importantly are you still going to love him when he gets older? Or are you going to take You beloved pet to the shelter claiming "you just found him"?
Your pet will probably die at the shelter because he is older. And if by chance he has a disability. While the shelter paperwork is being done. The worker will likely put euthanize on his paperwork. Only a miracle will save him then.
So let me ask you. Does your beloved pet ,who gave you love and companionship deserve this fate?
No he does not! Now he needs you love and your patience more than ever!
You made a promise when you adopted him. You promised that you would love him forever, not just in til it got inconvenient.
She deserves for you to keep that promise.
Friday, August 20, 2010
BDRA FundRaisers
BDRA will be at the L'Oreal's seventh annual "Your Dog is Worth it Too" Day Tomorrow. If you in the area please stop by and visit with our amazing dogs and volunteers. Here is a link to the website.
http://www.yourdogisworthittoo.com/
It is time for action! The Fundraising Team of BDRA is presenting a challenge to each of you - our volunteers, friends, family, and supporters. It is the $5 Challenge. If each of you can send in $5, we can make a serious dent in our deficit, and can continue to help those sweet dogs who so desperately need us. Also, please put the $5 BDRA Challenge on your Facebook page and send to everyone in your address book. We will continue to update you on how we are doing.
Please mail your tax-deductible donation to:
Blind Dog Rescue Alliance
P.O. Box 63401
Philadelphia, PA 19114
OR, you can send it via Paypal. Just go to www.paypal.com and send your
donation to treasurer@blinddogrescue.c om.
Remember that when in Paypal, if you click personal, then gift, BDRA will not incur any fees on your donation.
Please help us to continue to make a difference.
BDRA thanks you and so do
all of our current and incoming foster dogs.
Our Yankee Candle fundraiser is now underway. Please email fundraising@blinddogrescue.com to see if we have a volunteer near you to order from!
Here is a link to their page. WE get 40% of each order.
We are doing an Avon fundraiser! Shop at this Avon site.http://kennis.avonrepresentative.com/
Use promotion code BDRA2009 and we get 20% of what you spend!
Qualify for a Capital One credit card, and BDRA will get a percentage of all of your purchases, and $50 with your first purchase!!
http://www.yourdogisworthittoo.com/
It is time for action! The Fundraising Team of BDRA is presenting a challenge to each of you - our volunteers, friends, family, and supporters. It is the $5 Challenge. If each of you can send in $5, we can make a serious dent in our deficit, and can continue to help those sweet dogs who so desperately need us. Also, please put the $5 BDRA Challenge on your Facebook page and send to everyone in your address book. We will continue to update you on how we are doing.
Please mail your tax-deductible donation to:
Blind Dog Rescue Alliance
P.O. Box 63401
Philadelphia, PA 19114
OR, you can send it via Paypal. Just go to www.paypal.com and send your
donation to treasurer@blinddogrescue.c om.
Remember that when in Paypal, if you click personal, then gift, BDRA will not incur any fees on your donation.
Please help us to continue to make a difference.
BDRA thanks you and so do
all of our current and incoming foster dogs.
Our Yankee Candle fundraiser is now underway. Please email fundraising@blinddogrescue.com to see if we have a volunteer near you to order from!
Here is a link to their page. WE get 40% of each order.
We are doing an Avon fundraiser! Shop at this Avon site.http://kennis.avonrepresentative.com/
Use promotion code BDRA2009 and we get 20% of what you spend!
Qualify for a Capital One credit card, and BDRA will get a percentage of all of your purchases, and $50 with your first purchase!!
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Cataracts in dogs
Dog Cataracts
Dog cataracts are so common that they can be found in all ages and breeds. Dog cataracts are found in the lens of the eye. They are the result of disruption of the normal arrangement of the lens fibers or it’s capsule. The disruption results in the loss of transparency and a reduction in vision. Cataracts can be identified by sight. They have a white appearance, similar to crushed ice.
Dog cataracts form when the biomechanical system in the lens is damaged. The complicated sodium water pump system consists of 33% protein and 66% water. The system keeps the protein/water balance in check. When the pump system begins to fail, and extra water moves into the lens, the system becomes damaged and the percentage of soluble protein increases. Once these changes occur, loss of transparency occurs and cataracts form.
While dog cataracts can form at any age and in any breed, there are certain breeds that are more susceptible to cataracts. Dog cataracts in the following breeds also form at certain ages in each breed. Breeds most susceptible to dog cataracts include: Afghan Hound (6-12 months), American Cocker Spaniel
(6+ months), Boston Terrier (Congenital), Chesapeake Bay Retriever (1+ years), German Shepherd (8+ weeks), Golden Retriever (6+ months), Labrador Retriever (6+ months), Miniature Schnauzer (Congenital or 6+ months), Old English Sheepdog (Congenital), Siberian Husky (6+ months), Staffordshire Bull Terrier (6 months), Standard Poodle (1+ years), Welsh Springer Spaniel (Congenital), and the West Highland White Terrier (Congenital)
Types of Dog Cataracts
There are several types of dog cataracts including congenital cataracts, which are present at birth, developmental cataracts which are those that develop early on in life, senile cataracts, which occur in dogs over six years of age, inherited cataracts which occur independently or in association with other ocular disease, and cataracts that occur from trauma. Trauma related cataracts could occur from an auto accident, penetration, a shotgun pellet, or any other object. In these cases, the lens becomes damaged and a cataract may develop.
Dog Cataract Treatment
Depending on the severity of the cataracts, one of several different types of dog cataract surgeries may be used to remove the lens. These include: the removal of the entire lens and surrounding capsule; the removal of the lens leaving the surrounding capsule; phacoemulsification of the lens, and aspiration and desiccation of the lens. If you suspect that your dog has or is developing cataracts, contact a veterinary ophthalmologist immediately.
http://www.vetinfo.com/dog-cataracts
Please do Not forget about Our Yankee Candle Fund raiser. Part of the proceeds goes to help the great dogs.
http://www.yankeecandlefundraising.com/fallCatalog.html
Dog cataracts are so common that they can be found in all ages and breeds. Dog cataracts are found in the lens of the eye. They are the result of disruption of the normal arrangement of the lens fibers or it’s capsule. The disruption results in the loss of transparency and a reduction in vision. Cataracts can be identified by sight. They have a white appearance, similar to crushed ice.
Dog cataracts form when the biomechanical system in the lens is damaged. The complicated sodium water pump system consists of 33% protein and 66% water. The system keeps the protein/water balance in check. When the pump system begins to fail, and extra water moves into the lens, the system becomes damaged and the percentage of soluble protein increases. Once these changes occur, loss of transparency occurs and cataracts form.
While dog cataracts can form at any age and in any breed, there are certain breeds that are more susceptible to cataracts. Dog cataracts in the following breeds also form at certain ages in each breed. Breeds most susceptible to dog cataracts include: Afghan Hound (6-12 months), American Cocker Spaniel
(6+ months), Boston Terrier (Congenital), Chesapeake Bay Retriever (1+ years), German Shepherd (8+ weeks), Golden Retriever (6+ months), Labrador Retriever (6+ months), Miniature Schnauzer (Congenital or 6+ months), Old English Sheepdog (Congenital), Siberian Husky (6+ months), Staffordshire Bull Terrier (6 months), Standard Poodle (1+ years), Welsh Springer Spaniel (Congenital), and the West Highland White Terrier (Congenital)
Types of Dog Cataracts
There are several types of dog cataracts including congenital cataracts, which are present at birth, developmental cataracts which are those that develop early on in life, senile cataracts, which occur in dogs over six years of age, inherited cataracts which occur independently or in association with other ocular disease, and cataracts that occur from trauma. Trauma related cataracts could occur from an auto accident, penetration, a shotgun pellet, or any other object. In these cases, the lens becomes damaged and a cataract may develop.
Dog Cataract Treatment
Depending on the severity of the cataracts, one of several different types of dog cataract surgeries may be used to remove the lens. These include: the removal of the entire lens and surrounding capsule; the removal of the lens leaving the surrounding capsule; phacoemulsification of the lens, and aspiration and desiccation of the lens. If you suspect that your dog has or is developing cataracts, contact a veterinary ophthalmologist immediately.
http://www.vetinfo.com/dog-cataracts
Please do Not forget about Our Yankee Candle Fund raiser. Part of the proceeds goes to help the great dogs.
http://www.yankeecandlefundraising.com/fallCatalog.html
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Hot Spot Teatments
Please do not forget we are doing a Yankee candle Fundraiser for BDRA. Please contact a volunteer to get yours. Remember every Penny goes to help these precious souls.
http://www.yankeecandlefundraising.com/fallCatalog.html
Home Remedies for Hot Spot Treatments
Following a dog hot spot treatment right in your own home can save you a trip to the vet. Administering a home remedy such as apple cider vinegar or Vitamin E oil can help prevent a small irritation from turning into a large hot spot. In some cases, oral antibiotics may be required to clear up the infection.
For starters, look for the preliminary signs of a hot spot before treating your dog at home:
* Hair loss
* Red skin
* Excessive licking
* Moist skin
Help relieve these symptoms with everything from witch hazel to tea bags, here's how:
Cut the Hair Surrounding the Infected Area
It's more challenging for long-haired dogs to heal from these open sores. As soon as you discover the hot spot, trim your dog's hair. You need to clip the hair that is covering the lesion or it will further irritate your dog. Sometimes a hot spot may get larger or fill up with puss if the hair is matted over it.
Trimming the dog's hair also helps the healing process by letting air get to the area. In some cases you may need to shave a portion of your dog's hair to uncover a larger infection.
Cleanse the Hot Spot
After clipping away the hair, you need to cleanse the inflamed or red area. At the first sign of even as slight hot spot, apply a warm compress to the irritated section of the skin.
Make a Salt Water Solution
Fill a mid-sized bowl with warm water and a spoonful of salt. Then, adequately soak a wash cloth in the mixture. Place the wet cloth onto the hot spot, and let it sit for a few minutes. This technique helps to reduce the swelling and remove the puss from the hot spot.
Tea Bag Remedy for Drying Out Spots
Tea contains special properties called tannic acids that help relieve sores. You can create a compress and apply it to your dog's hot spot. Use either black or green tea, which works to dry out the moist skin lesion.
To use a tea bag as a healing compress, dip the tea bag in hot water. After it cools, place it directly on the hot spot for a few minutes. For best results, repeat this process a few times a day until you see the area starting to dry up and heal.
Hydrocortisone Creams for Serious Hot Spots
Your dog may need a stronger solution to clear up his skin lesion. If he's prone to hot spots, keep your medicine cabinet well stocked with skin creams. At the first sign of a hot spot, rub a bit of cortisone cream onto the inflamed area. Doing so can help prevent a small irritation from formulating into an open wound.
Cortisone helps prevent your dog from itching. In some case, the dog's skin becomes raw and infected from scratching.
Prevent Your Dog from Irritating the Hot Spot
* Provide your dog with plenty of activities to take the focus off scratching.
* Consider a special collar to prevent him from scratching the rest of his body.
* Keep your dog's nails well trimmed.
* Cool his skin and soothe his itch with a little witch hazel.
Vetinfo.com
http://www.yankeecandlefundraising.com/fallCatalog.html
Home Remedies for Hot Spot Treatments
Following a dog hot spot treatment right in your own home can save you a trip to the vet. Administering a home remedy such as apple cider vinegar or Vitamin E oil can help prevent a small irritation from turning into a large hot spot. In some cases, oral antibiotics may be required to clear up the infection.
For starters, look for the preliminary signs of a hot spot before treating your dog at home:
* Hair loss
* Red skin
* Excessive licking
* Moist skin
Help relieve these symptoms with everything from witch hazel to tea bags, here's how:
Cut the Hair Surrounding the Infected Area
It's more challenging for long-haired dogs to heal from these open sores. As soon as you discover the hot spot, trim your dog's hair. You need to clip the hair that is covering the lesion or it will further irritate your dog. Sometimes a hot spot may get larger or fill up with puss if the hair is matted over it.
Trimming the dog's hair also helps the healing process by letting air get to the area. In some cases you may need to shave a portion of your dog's hair to uncover a larger infection.
Cleanse the Hot Spot
After clipping away the hair, you need to cleanse the inflamed or red area. At the first sign of even as slight hot spot, apply a warm compress to the irritated section of the skin.
Make a Salt Water Solution
Fill a mid-sized bowl with warm water and a spoonful of salt. Then, adequately soak a wash cloth in the mixture. Place the wet cloth onto the hot spot, and let it sit for a few minutes. This technique helps to reduce the swelling and remove the puss from the hot spot.
Tea Bag Remedy for Drying Out Spots
Tea contains special properties called tannic acids that help relieve sores. You can create a compress and apply it to your dog's hot spot. Use either black or green tea, which works to dry out the moist skin lesion.
To use a tea bag as a healing compress, dip the tea bag in hot water. After it cools, place it directly on the hot spot for a few minutes. For best results, repeat this process a few times a day until you see the area starting to dry up and heal.
Hydrocortisone Creams for Serious Hot Spots
Your dog may need a stronger solution to clear up his skin lesion. If he's prone to hot spots, keep your medicine cabinet well stocked with skin creams. At the first sign of a hot spot, rub a bit of cortisone cream onto the inflamed area. Doing so can help prevent a small irritation from formulating into an open wound.
Cortisone helps prevent your dog from itching. In some case, the dog's skin becomes raw and infected from scratching.
Prevent Your Dog from Irritating the Hot Spot
* Provide your dog with plenty of activities to take the focus off scratching.
* Consider a special collar to prevent him from scratching the rest of his body.
* Keep your dog's nails well trimmed.
* Cool his skin and soothe his itch with a little witch hazel.
Vetinfo.com
Monday, August 16, 2010
How We Began
Sometime in the spring of 2009, a handful of members on the blind dog owner support group were talking about the volume of blind dogs in shelters. Blind dogs seem to fall through the cracks in shelters, especially mixed breeds. If only there were a blind dog rescue….could WE start a blind dog rescue??? Have members all over the US and Canada? The task seemed daunting, and near impossible. How can we organize people so spread out? Are enough people even interested in helping? We formed an email list to discuss it. 30 people joined and started sharing ideas. Slowly we formed teams, and team coordinators, a Board of Directors, bylaws, policies, all the necessary elements. Even then, I’m not sure we thought it would actually work.
Then Tex arrived at a shelter in GA. Sweet, young, mixed breed Tex. He was out of time, and was scheduled for euthanization early on a Tuesday morning in August. Colleen, the newly appointed Vice President, was determined to save him. She spent hours on the phone: finding a foster home, arranging for someone to pull him from the shelter, getting him vetted and ready for his trip, organizing a transport from Georgia to Wisconsin. Renamed Adam, an appropriate name for our first dog, he joined the BDRA family on August 11, 2009.
From that first foster, we have grown faster and bigger than we ever anticipated. I remember hoping that we could save maybe 20-25 dogs our first year, if we were lucky. To date, we have rescued 65 and adopted out 32. We have over 100 volunteers spread throughout the US and Canada. We have over 2500 people following us on Facebook, who have donated thousands of dollars to us to help pay our vet bills for our foster dogs. We have lost a couple very sick BDRA dogs, and we will never forget them (Godspeed Zinha and Carly, we miss you). We have been interviewed on TV and in print, including Dog Fancy magazine. We have run numerous transports around the country to get our dogs to their foster and forever home. We have attended over a dozen events to spread the word about BDRA, and about the spirit and determination of blind dogs.
We couldn’t have done this without a lot of help. Thank you to everyone who has supported BDRA. To our volunteers, who devote their precious free time to our mission, after work, weekends, sacrificing for the special dogs in BDRA’s care. To our adopters, opening their hearts and homes to our dogs. To our supporters, who donate what money they can to allow us to rescue more dogs, over and over again. To the drivers who give up their weekends to help move our dogs out of shelters and to their foster homes. To the people who crosspost our information everywhere, spreading the word about blind dogs. To the dogs, who show us that blindness is not a handicap, and that blind dogs really do see with their hearts.
As the saying goes, we’ve come a long way, baby! And we’re going to keep on going until every blind and visually impaired dog has a home and a warm bed to sleep in at night.
--
Karen Belfi, President
Then Tex arrived at a shelter in GA. Sweet, young, mixed breed Tex. He was out of time, and was scheduled for euthanization early on a Tuesday morning in August. Colleen, the newly appointed Vice President, was determined to save him. She spent hours on the phone: finding a foster home, arranging for someone to pull him from the shelter, getting him vetted and ready for his trip, organizing a transport from Georgia to Wisconsin. Renamed Adam, an appropriate name for our first dog, he joined the BDRA family on August 11, 2009.
From that first foster, we have grown faster and bigger than we ever anticipated. I remember hoping that we could save maybe 20-25 dogs our first year, if we were lucky. To date, we have rescued 65 and adopted out 32. We have over 100 volunteers spread throughout the US and Canada. We have over 2500 people following us on Facebook, who have donated thousands of dollars to us to help pay our vet bills for our foster dogs. We have lost a couple very sick BDRA dogs, and we will never forget them (Godspeed Zinha and Carly, we miss you). We have been interviewed on TV and in print, including Dog Fancy magazine. We have run numerous transports around the country to get our dogs to their foster and forever home. We have attended over a dozen events to spread the word about BDRA, and about the spirit and determination of blind dogs.
We couldn’t have done this without a lot of help. Thank you to everyone who has supported BDRA. To our volunteers, who devote their precious free time to our mission, after work, weekends, sacrificing for the special dogs in BDRA’s care. To our adopters, opening their hearts and homes to our dogs. To our supporters, who donate what money they can to allow us to rescue more dogs, over and over again. To the drivers who give up their weekends to help move our dogs out of shelters and to their foster homes. To the people who crosspost our information everywhere, spreading the word about blind dogs. To the dogs, who show us that blindness is not a handicap, and that blind dogs really do see with their hearts.
As the saying goes, we’ve come a long way, baby! And we’re going to keep on going until every blind and visually impaired dog has a home and a warm bed to sleep in at night.
--
Karen Belfi, President
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Good News and a Recipe.
First the Good news;
Xinda Made it to her forever home yesterday. Thanks to all our volunteers who made it happen. We look forward to hearing from her and her new family soon.
Also we have our celebrity pups.
Last week Floyd was the Dog of the Day at the Trenton Thunder game..
This week Nikita and Zoe:
http://www.trentonthunder.com/fans/zPhotoDisplayLarge.asp?key=DogOfTheDay&P=..\FTP\Photos\DogOfTheDay\\58large.jpg
http://www.trentonthunder.com/fans/zPhotoDisplayLarge.asp?key=DogOfTheDay&P=..\FTP\Photos\DogOfTheDay\\59large.jpg
How about some good old home cooking for your pup? I am going to post a new recipe each sunday. Today we have Akita style Lamb and Rice.
* 1lb ground lamb (beef if you wish)
* 1-2 cups brown rice
* 2 stalks Broccoli
* 2 or 3 medium potatoes
* 3 medium carrots
* 1 sheet kombi, Sea Kelp (optional)
Dog Food Recipe Directions:
Brown lamb in a fry pan. Boil water, put about 4-5 cups into a crock pot, so it is already hot while you are fixing the rest of the ingredients. Add cubed potatoes to the fry pan. Cut broccoli and add this to the crock. Put the rest of the works in the pot, add enough hot water to cover. Add pepper to taste. Throw in 1/2 cup brown rice and mix.
Recipe courtesy of I love dogs.com
Xinda Made it to her forever home yesterday. Thanks to all our volunteers who made it happen. We look forward to hearing from her and her new family soon.
Also we have our celebrity pups.
Last week Floyd was the Dog of the Day at the Trenton Thunder game..
This week Nikita and Zoe:
http://www.trentonthunder.com/fans/zPhotoDisplayLarge.asp?key=DogOfTheDay&P=..\FTP\Photos\DogOfTheDay\\58large.jpg
http://www.trentonthunder.com/fans/zPhotoDisplayLarge.asp?key=DogOfTheDay&P=..\FTP\Photos\DogOfTheDay\\59large.jpg
How about some good old home cooking for your pup? I am going to post a new recipe each sunday. Today we have Akita style Lamb and Rice.
* 1lb ground lamb (beef if you wish)
* 1-2 cups brown rice
* 2 stalks Broccoli
* 2 or 3 medium potatoes
* 3 medium carrots
* 1 sheet kombi, Sea Kelp (optional)
Dog Food Recipe Directions:
Brown lamb in a fry pan. Boil water, put about 4-5 cups into a crock pot, so it is already hot while you are fixing the rest of the ingredients. Add cubed potatoes to the fry pan. Cut broccoli and add this to the crock. Put the rest of the works in the pot, add enough hot water to cover. Add pepper to taste. Throw in 1/2 cup brown rice and mix.
Recipe courtesy of I love dogs.com
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Ask the AKC Animal Behaviorist - Can Old Dogs Learn New Tricks?
by Paw Nation Staff (Subscribe to Paw Nation Staff's posts)
Aug 11th 2010 @ 11:00AM Filed Under: Dogs, Pet Training, Ask the AKC
Meet Mary Burch, American Kennel Club Canine Good Citizen Director and Paw Nation's expert columnist addressing your questions on animal behavior. Dr. Burch has over 25 years of experience working with dogs, and she is one of fewer than 50 Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists based in the United States. She is the author of 10 books, including the new official book on the AKC Canine Good Citizen Program, "Citizen Canine: 10 Essential Skills Every Well-Mannered Dog Should Know."
My dog, Butch, is a 10-year-old mutt. I never got around to teaching him very many tricks, though he can sit on command. Can I really teach my senior dog new things? I think it would be nice for him to have something fun to try. What would you recommend?
Yes, it's true! You can teach an old dog new tricks.
At the age of 10, Butch will look forward to daily or evening training sessions with you as long as you keep the sessions short, fun, and use plenty of positive reinforcement including praise and small bits of Butch's favorite treat.
Here are three tricks you can teach indoors to beat the summer heat:
Shake Hands
1. Start by having your dog sit.
2. Kneel in front of him.
3. Say, "Shake hands," as you take his paw.
4. As soon as you take the paw, say, "Good shake!" and give the dog a treat.
5. Repeat this process a few times, then say, "Shake hands," and wait to see if the dog lifts his paw on his own. Most dogs will start lifting their paw to shake after a few trials. When the dog does the shake on his own, give him the treat immediately along with enthusiastic praise, "GOOD shake!!"
6. If it looks like your dog isn't getting the hang of lifting his paw to shake, you can very gently push his shoulder. This will push him off balance and he will automatically lift his paw. Take the paw, say, "Good shake!" and give him the reward.
Speak
1. Start by choosing an activity that your dog likes to do and that will get him excited and barking. This might be running around the room, trying to get a favorite toy from you, or trying to get a tasty treat that you're holding in your hand.
2. Just as soon as the dog barks, say, "Speak!" and give him the treat.
3. Repeat this process a few times, then, say, "Speak," and wait to see if he does this on his own. When he barks, give him the food reward and praise immediately, "Good Speak!"
4. If you have a quiet dog who never barks, you may want to teach some other tricks first.
Roll Over
1. Teach your dog to lay down on command or lure him into position using a food reward.
2. When the dog is laying down, hold the treat at his nose. Move it behind him and in an "over" motion. The dog will roll over to get the food.
3. As the dog is rolling over, say, "Roll over," praise him by saying, "Good roll over!" as you give him the food reward.
Note: this is best taught on a comfortable surface such as on carpeting in the house or on the grass outside. In a case of an older dog, take into consideration any possible physical problems related to aging (e.g., hip dysplasia). Choose another activity if the dog has physical problems that will result in discomfort if he does certain tricks.
by Paw Nation Staff (Subscribe to Paw Nation Staff's posts)
Aug 11th 2010 @ 11:00AM Filed Under: Dogs, Pet Training, Ask the AKC
Meet Mary Burch, American Kennel Club Canine Good Citizen Director and Paw Nation's expert columnist addressing your questions on animal behavior. Dr. Burch has over 25 years of experience working with dogs, and she is one of fewer than 50 Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists based in the United States. She is the author of 10 books, including the new official book on the AKC Canine Good Citizen Program, "Citizen Canine: 10 Essential Skills Every Well-Mannered Dog Should Know."
My dog, Butch, is a 10-year-old mutt. I never got around to teaching him very many tricks, though he can sit on command. Can I really teach my senior dog new things? I think it would be nice for him to have something fun to try. What would you recommend?
Yes, it's true! You can teach an old dog new tricks.
At the age of 10, Butch will look forward to daily or evening training sessions with you as long as you keep the sessions short, fun, and use plenty of positive reinforcement including praise and small bits of Butch's favorite treat.
Here are three tricks you can teach indoors to beat the summer heat:
Shake Hands
1. Start by having your dog sit.
2. Kneel in front of him.
3. Say, "Shake hands," as you take his paw.
4. As soon as you take the paw, say, "Good shake!" and give the dog a treat.
5. Repeat this process a few times, then say, "Shake hands," and wait to see if the dog lifts his paw on his own. Most dogs will start lifting their paw to shake after a few trials. When the dog does the shake on his own, give him the treat immediately along with enthusiastic praise, "GOOD shake!!"
6. If it looks like your dog isn't getting the hang of lifting his paw to shake, you can very gently push his shoulder. This will push him off balance and he will automatically lift his paw. Take the paw, say, "Good shake!" and give him the reward.
Speak
1. Start by choosing an activity that your dog likes to do and that will get him excited and barking. This might be running around the room, trying to get a favorite toy from you, or trying to get a tasty treat that you're holding in your hand.
2. Just as soon as the dog barks, say, "Speak!" and give him the treat.
3. Repeat this process a few times, then, say, "Speak," and wait to see if he does this on his own. When he barks, give him the food reward and praise immediately, "Good Speak!"
4. If you have a quiet dog who never barks, you may want to teach some other tricks first.
Roll Over
1. Teach your dog to lay down on command or lure him into position using a food reward.
2. When the dog is laying down, hold the treat at his nose. Move it behind him and in an "over" motion. The dog will roll over to get the food.
3. As the dog is rolling over, say, "Roll over," praise him by saying, "Good roll over!" as you give him the food reward.
Note: this is best taught on a comfortable surface such as on carpeting in the house or on the grass outside. In a case of an older dog, take into consideration any possible physical problems related to aging (e.g., hip dysplasia). Choose another activity if the dog has physical problems that will result in discomfort if he does certain tricks.
Friday, August 13, 2010
ONE MORE LEG NEEDED
for Xinda's transport tomorrow.
Marion VA to Christiansburg VA:
...10:20 AM to 11:35 AM
please contact transport@blinddogrescue.com if you can help!
Dog of the Day
BDRA will have not one, but two Dogs of the Day at the
Trenton Thunder games this weekend.
Tonight, Nikita will make her one-eyed debut, and tomorrow,Zoe will do the same. :)
I'll post the links when their photos are on the Thunder's website.
Meet BDRA Foster Nikita
Tomorrow, at the Piazza at Schmidts in Philly!
She will be there 12pm to 3pm!
Address:
Philadelphia, PA, 19123
TRANSPORT HELP!!
3 legs needed in TN and VA to get Xinda to her FOREVER home tomorrow!! Email transport@blinddogrescue.com if you can help.
Knoxville TN to Colonial Heights TN:7:20 AM to 8:55 AM
Marion VA to Christiansburg VA:10:20 AM to 11:35 AM
Buena Vista VA to Harrisonburg VA:1:15 PM to 2:25 PM
:(
Little Xavier was just unable to fight any longer. His blood tests showed little improvement and he was getting tired. The vet said his condition was chronic and that he had been in kidney failure for an extended period of time.
The poor little boy had been neglected for a very long time and so we felt we owed him some final kindness and we let him go peacefully. Godspeed, Xavier.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Poor Xavier :(......
We are very worried about our foster Xavier. He is in severe kidney failure. He will stay for a couple of days at the vet so they can give him fluid. This is his only chance. Hopefully he responds, if not we will have to let him go..
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